Two days in Moscow

After a long overnight flight on Swiss Air to Geneva and then on to Moscow, we arrived at 3 p.m. and were met by our driver from Gate 1 Travel. There was a bit of confusion as there were two Gate 1 Travel groups arriving. I had sat next to Scott on the plane who was in one group. We met Barbara in New York but she was also in the other group. they were only doing Moscow and St. Petersburg. When we lined up with them outside the airport, our name wasn't on the guide's list. We soon found our driver and it was just the two of us to ride in town. It was at least an hour drive into town to our Marriott Hotel. Egis, our Lithuanian guide, was there to greet us and send us to our room!

He held an introductory meeting at 7 p.m. to give us basic directions, our "Whisperer", so we could hear our local guide, name tags, etc. Pat Bartlett (from Wellfleet) was there with her friend Alice, from Charlottesville, VA. then Robert and Barb from Detroit area. He works for Ford in Marketing. Bill Clinton is from Philly. Luz and Joseph were from California. They met in Saudi Arabia when both were connected to the military. She is a dentist from the Phillipines; he's Mexican-American. Sita and Natalie, from CA; and Susan from FL. We had a welcome dinner that was nice.

Our breakfasts in all the restaurants are amazing! If we don't have lunch included, there's always sandwich stuff to make and take for the day. Edward was our guide in Moscow. He was rather difficult to understand. Went past the Moscow River, the Duma, the Parliament, KGB and several churches. Lots of those blocky gray apartment buildings we will see all over this whole trip, where the Soviets had been dominant in the 50s and 60s. Went into Assumption Cathedral where Czars were crowned. Churches in Russian Orthodox have no pews; everyone stands for the whole service. Icons on the walls are decorated with gold and silver with usually only the faces peeking through.

The Kremlin was a long red walled enclosure along the river with many buildings, towers and churches inside. We could go inside and wander around which surprised me. In the Armory gallery there were many royal items, crowns, scepters, etc. Outside we viewed a military parade with horses and performing soldiers.

Through an archway we passed this HUGE cannon (it was never fired!) into Red Square with St. Basil's amazing, beautiful cathedral on one end, GUM department store on the side, Lenin's Tomb (not opened) near the KremlinWall. Lunch in GUM with Pat and Alice and then walked around. Lots of high end stuff. when Betty was here in the 1960s there was hardly anything in the stores. Things were very grim then! Back on the bus we passed Moscow University and the Olympic Stadium from 1980 when America boycotted those Olympics because of Russia's invasion of Afghanistan (guide pointed out it was okay for US to invade, but not Russia!).

Had difficult trying to get Russian rubles from ATM. Neither card would work. Spent the next hour calling US and Cape Cod 5. Turns out bank teller hadn't noted Russia on my form when I told them my travels. We walked with group from hotel down to the Metropole Hotel (most of us had red Gentleman from Moscow by Towles where this guy is imprisoned but free to roam around this hotel (it's fiction but we wanted to see it!). We all had a drink in the lobby and I went to ask about a possible tour (it was already like 7:30 p.m.). But a guide, David, showed up and he gave us a delightful tour of the hotel. Obviously they have had many tourists come by who have read this book and so he gives regular tours!! It was fun! He had a picture of the author who had come by as well. 

After that the group split up as everyone except Betty and me wanted to go eat somewhere. We headed back and were going to get something at a shop. We went in one and I bought two bottles of beer to take back and went to the front in a booth while Betty was in the back getting a sandwich or something. I went back and checked TWICE and she was in this line at the counter. I should have told her I was waiting at the front but knew she had to come by the only door and I was sitting right next to it waiting. It was by the checkout counter where I assumed she had to pay for her food. Finally I went to the back again and she was gone!! I called her name, walked up and down the aisles of the tiny store - no Betty! I went outside thinking she'd be waiting there, up to the corner looking for her. Nowhere!!! After 1/2 hour or more of searching, I had no choice but to start walking that long road back to the hotel! I was walk/running thinking she was ahead of me - where else could she be? - for a good 40 minutes! I got to our hotel, up to our room - no Betty! I could NOT figure out what happened! I went back to the lobby to sit and wait by the front door, went out to the corner looking both ways! FINALLY she came in - at least an hour and a half since I'd last seen her. She had paid for her food back at the counter and just walked out of the store. When I wasn't outside in front, she just assumed I had left her (I had NEVER done that in all our traveling!!) and started home. I was waiting inside at that booth!! So she was long gone by the time I headed home to the hotel. She got confused and went past our street and on the other side. It was almost midnight by the time she showed up. We should never leave a new hotel without a card with the address written down!!! Not a great start to our trip!!!

The next day was an out of town trip to Holy Trinity Monastery with a clock tower, churches and many devout monks 9men and women) and visitors. Pilgrims were buying large plastic jugs and filling them with holy water from a spring there. On the way to our lunch place outside the monastery we found some street stalls where I bought the nesting dolls (15) for Sarah. I also bought a Santa nesting doll set for Jackson! Lovely salmon lunch and back to the hotel.

Huge bell near Kremlin that was cracked

Procession of monks at Holy Trinity

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Mural at our hotel

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Older monk at Holy Trinity

That night we had an optional tour of Moscow by night, all the buildings lit up, and the subway tour. Built in the 1920s as a propaganda tool with its paintings of prosperous happy, workers, we went to about 4 or 5 different stations. Some had beautiful chandeliers, others bronze statues. During the Stalin years things were so depressing, this was to give people hope. Long escalators to get to platforms, no toilets or restaurants or souvenir shops like in many subway stations. Edward told us to think of Russia now as the best! No more Communism,no more imperialism, Russia is a thriving REpublic! Only N. Korea, Cub, Vietnam and China are still Communist.

Up early the next day to catch the train to St. Petersburg. Our suitcases had gone with Andry on the bus and he would meet us there. Very nice, fast train! Arrived around 2 p.m. where our local guide met us and walked us to the Crowne Plaza Hotel. Betty and I opened one of our bottles of wine, after room service brought us two wine glasses and a cork screw! Enjoyed a couple of glasses before heading out, NOT to get lost from each other this time!! We set up clear rules!! (It was really all BETTY's fault!! :)

FIRST ENTRY FOR ITALY 2019 - CAMINO DI FRANCESCO

Headed to Italy for 3 weeks

After child/dog sitting at Kerry’s for 5 days while they and friends had a fun birthday celebration in Austin, TX, I headed down to CT to pick up friend/former teacher colleague Barbara and headed down to Stamford, CT. After printing out our boarding passes there, friend Sue Kelly drove us to JFK for our 4:45 pm flight to Rome. Flight was cramped (American airlines, middle seats) and no sleep, we arrive at Fiumicino airport at 7:15 and cleared customs and got our rental car. We were in for a sticker shock as I had been quoted about $300 Euros for the 14 days but with $30/day for insurance added on it came to $600+!! He let us check other rental companies and with $1000+ and $700+ quotes, we settled for Sixt rental. He upgraded our size and threw in a GPS for no additional charge!

Off we went headed to Arezzo to meet up with Doug. We were going to somewhat participate in a 2 week hike along the Camino di Francesco from Arezzo to Assisi. Then we are doing some sightseeing by train to Pisa, Vernazza and Como on Lake Como, coming home May 29 from Milan. 

I adjusted to a standard shift and with Barbara watching signs we made it there. It was a little harried trying to meet up with Doug and 5 other monks who were staying in town but he got the street names and found us. I only knew ahead of time Phap Lieu, Vietnamese/French monk before and the others were new. We walked with them to get a pizza lunch/dinner and then GELATO!!! Delicious!! 

We have been offered a place to stay just outside of Arezzo by one of the Sangha (that’s a group that are followers of Thich Nhat Han), two Italian teachers to stay for the duration. Our plan is to meet up with the hikers maybe at the beginning of the day for an hour or so, hike a bit and then drive off and visit nearby towns and then meet up with them at the end of the day maybe for dinner! Instead, Doug suggested we delay going to Mario and Alessandro’s and drive up to the Sanctuary of La Verna where the hike will begin, and stay there with them until Monday when the hike begins.

With Doug driving, we did that. UP, UP, up the mountain to this Franciscan Monastery where St. Francis in 1200s lived and died. I’m sure glad I wasn’t driving, although I’ll probably have to do that drive a couple of times this week. This is a place where St. Francis wanted to get away from it all, commune with God! It’s at 3700 ft, overlooking the wonderful Tuscan valleys below! Magnificent views from the Quadrante, the big piazza in front of the gorgeous Basilica here. We were checked in to our cozy, stark bedroom with twin beds and a warm shower!! 

This place is pretty amazing! I’m so glad we came as it was at least an hour’s drive from Mario’s. Many visitors come here on pilgrimages or just to view an amazing place. I visited Assisi three years ago with Michelle for the day. It was beautiful, lots of history and I heard his story. But I’d never heard of this place where he ended his life. There are 27 monks living here. I’ve met two of them. This morning Barbara and I were in the Basilica at 6:30 a.m. when the monks where praying and singing. About 1/2 of them were there. Doug showed up and an Italian Dao Phuong who is helping facilitate this hike. This is where the medieval pilgrims would come to begin their pilgrimage to Rome, through Assisi in honor of St. Francis’ life. Last night we met in the church one of the Franciscan brothers who is a novice from Dubai, of all places, who was here for a year. He told us what would be going on the next morning so we showed up to see how it went. We were there for about an hour and then went to breakfast. Other visitors who are staying here were there as well. It’s a gorgeous Basilica and has many blue and white glazed terra-cotta pieces by the artist della Robbia from the 15th century. They are all over the grounds in many tiny chapels. During Francis’ life, the last two years, he received the Stigmata (wounds in hands and feet and his side the same as Christ’s wounds from the crucifixion. So there is a Chapel of the Stigmata. Barbara saw a ceremony/procession (she spotted Doug participating) walking from the Basilica to the Chapel. There’s going to be one tomorrow at 3 so I’ll get to see it, too. Didn’t get back in time to see the procession. Apparently they do this EVERY day!!

Doug and the other monks are staying near where the Franciscan monks are. We met Father John, a Franciscan from Malaysia,who was asked to be a liaison between the Buddhist group and the Franciscans. So we sat with Doug and Fr. John, Barbara and I and had a lovely conversation about him, where he was from, his life, etc. (he’s 50 something). He has been to Plum Village and so is familiar with the practice. The monks have been showing up at 7 a.m. in the Basilica and doing the chanting with the Franciscans (in Italian). Doug’s Italian seems pretty good. Being fluent in the Spanish helps and the group keeps prompting him with words. 

We were asked to drive Favio, the lay planner of this hike, on Sunday to Citte di Centrale to meet the group of hikers and the van that will shuttle them up here. We did that and then were able to find our way back up to the Sanctuary. We passed on the way where we will stay the first night in Pieve S. Stefano. 

When we returned, I had asked Fr. John if he knew if we would be able to get into a private area with an old pharmacy/medical treatment room and the library. Doug found us when we returned and the “guardian” monk had already started the tour of the pharmacy with the family of one of the Franciscans. There was an old skeleton in a closet, surgical tools, two snakes in jars, and herbs, etc. stored on shelves. It hasn’t been used since the 1950s. 

We then moved on to the archives/library. I was given a pair of white gloves by the guardian (he had a pair on as well) and he put in my hands several large books from the 11th and 12th centuries, on animal skin parchment, hand lettered!! It was amazing! My hands were shaking just to handle something that old! He moved forward to some books that were now printed (not sure when printing press came in). I was amazed the letters in all of the books were so clear! Not faded! He then took out a couple of hand scribed scrolls, in special fire resistant boxes, from the 1200s, time of St. Francis. One was a letter from his follower Masseo recalled the last farewell when Francis left the Sanctuary, after receiving the Stigmata, was going back to Assisi, a couple of years before he died. I had read this speech in one of the books I bought. It was breath-taking to see the ACTUAL letter preserved. For a former librarian, it was thrilling that Fr. John was able to arrange this (I had seen pictures in the book I bought about the Camino so he thanked me for asking. He hadn’t known anything about these private rooms!)

Favio asked if we would drive our car, loaded with extra luggage, along with Dao Phuong’s father who lives in Arezzo, down to the next place for the hikers. So we did. We then went in the little town to find Doug a scarf. We also got him 3 pair of socks (his had gotten wet that morning they started out in a big puddle), and a sleeveless black vest. He seemed to appreciate them when we met up. So Barbara and I headed back to the hostel where I thought we were all staying. We moved into a room with a double bed and bath. 

At the Sanctuary it was a surprise to run into Sister Dao Nghiem, a French sister who was ordained same time as Doug, had come to PV a couple of months before him in 2003, who was hiking with her daughter Sivalami from Barcelona. I had met them when I went to the Barcelona teacher retreat and also years before in PV. They had started hiking from Florence and randomly met up with us. they were hiking on their own a bit ahead of Doug’s group. So they arrived at the hostel which was full but we gave them floor space in our room. They showered, got settled on the floor to rest, when the large group arrived. Turns out our room HAD to be for the guy hikers to stay! So Favio went with Barbara and I into town, barely 1 km. away to a hotel in town. We had a HUGE room with a king bed and two twins. So Sr., her daughter, Barbara and I took over that room for the night. We had dinner back at the very crowded hostel with the group of 27 and then went to the hotel with peace and quiet. They were very appreciative of the treat of a comfy bed, heated towel rack!!

They headed off after breakfast to the next stop at Sansepolcro. The group didn’t need us to transport luggage so we off for the day to San Marino, a mini-country up on a high point completely surrounded by Italy. It’s on the level with Monaco, Andorra, Liechtenstein, and the tiniest Vatican City. Our GPS in the VW I rented got us there. We had an issue with parking but found a 30 minute space to run into a tourist shop and get a few things, including postcards and stamps from SM. I moved the car to another 30 minute spot and we were able to walk some uphill into the town for an overlooking view out towards the Adriatic. We left and drove to Rimini and found a place near the beach (pretty ugly beach) for lunch and gelato! and headed back. 

We ended up in an old convent hostel in Sansepolcro and there was Sr. Dao and Sivakami!! We went out to dinner (she treated at a delightful WARM spot!) and had our daily gelato and home for the night. After breakfast we drove them to the outskirts of town where they headed off trekking toward Assisi. 

MORE CATCHUP!

This is  kind of out of sequence but who knows but me!!?

Our visit to an Organic Farm, the Juari Tropical Don Juan Organic Farm, was hosted by 19 year old Eliecer who was over-the-top charming/hokey! He came from a poor family down the road from this farm and the owner hired him for odd jobs. He picked up English amazingly well, for very little formal education - he's not finished with school yet - and worked hard to make the tour interesting. All natural produces, including methane from cow manure, are used and recycled. Several plants were used in cancer treatment. Several of our group helped grind the sugar cane into liquid and then we sampled the liquor made from it.

On Friday there was a boat cruise on the Rio Frio, a Ramsar Sik (Ramsar Treaty for protection of water and migratory birds, signed among countries in Iran, including the US where there are several Ramsar sites. Lots of howler monkeys (deep throated sound), spider monkeys and white-faced monkeys were putting on a show in the trees along the bank. Caymans (tiny crocodile-like animals like we saw on the Amazon in Ecuador on a previous trip), egrets and herons, lizards and iguanas and tons of birds. Back at our La Fortuna lodge we walked through the animal areas where you could see ants busy working, crocodile sleeping, some turtles. We spent a lot of time in the various thermal pools. Most resorts we've spent 2 nights and then move on.

One of thermal pools

Hot and cold pools

Drove over dam and artificial lake that provides water power

Arenal volcano from distance

Twice Betty1 had banana split for lunch!!! she is almost 80 and quite a hoot!!

Cashew tree. Now I understand why they are so expensive. Break off fruit and nut is on the top! That's ONE cashew!

Inside one of the grocery store stops

Juan Carlos loading suitcases on roof of van - every two days!!

Our next stop was the foothills of Rincon de la Vieja Volcano. Alex walked us around and saw huge ficus trees that wrap around and strangle other trees. Met up on the Sunset Terrace/bar for gorgeous views.

Bottom of 400FT waterslide. Very bumpy! Nobody wanted to break a hip!

Alex showing us the ficus tree that wraps around and strangles other tree.

Walking on the hanging bridges. About 8 of them!

My meditation view one morning. Quite a show of birds!

Top of water slide at thermal pools

View of second volcano

Sunset terrace view

TRYING TO CATCH UP!

So we are waiting here in San Jose for our new tour guide (don't know how ANYONE could replace Alex!! He was special!) to take us to the airport for a short small plane flight to the 3 day extension on the Caribbean side to Tortugeuro National Park. 1/2 of our group left this morning for home. I think there are 7 of us left to go on.

Here are some things I remember Alex talking about relating to life in Costa Rica. CR was a crossroads through Central America but didn't have a huge Spanish settlement presence, maybe because it is so mountainous and not too rich in natural resources. I think they were part of a large Guatamala group at one time. They had a civil war and at the end in 1949, the leader abolished the army and they haven't had one since. They spent their money on education (96% literacy rate, most speaking English as well) and medical care and other social improvements. They have a president, for 4 years and then has to leave office. They can come back again and again but with 4 years in between. He admits there is a lot of corruption higher up in the government. Government employees have it pretty cushy! They have this + system where things get added to their salary for minor things. + for being married. + for having a kid + if you speak another language, even if it isn't necessary or useful for your job. I think he said there were up to 140 +s available!! He said that is the current topic for discussion and change as it's bankrupting the country.

He talked about the medical system. Pretty much everything is covered. The problem is, you have to WAIT! and you can die while you wait for what you need. So many people also pay for private medical services. A doctor can work for the government as well as work in private practice. So people with money can get the care they need faster. Even heart transplants and other transplants are covered. NOT things like cosmetic procedures though.

The country years ago began to focus on eco-tourism. The hotels are rated, rather than stars, on LEAVES! We stayed at a couple of 5 leaf (the highest ratings) hotels - meaning they are green, recycle, reuse, conserve, no AC, just fans, no TVs in rooms, everything to encourage the natural flora and fauna and not pollute. No one uses dryers - use the sun!

Toucans through Alex's camera

Horseback ride

Alex on bus giving infor

Busy ant mound

Arenal Volcano - one of 13 active ones. We stayed at the foothills with thermal springs.

TRAVEL TO CHACHAGUA

We're headed toward the Arenal volcano area. The Bosques de Chachagua Lodge is lovely! Betty and my hut has a lovely 3-sided porch with hammock, a beautiful bathroom with a rain shower head, two huge queen beds, with a fan over each. Up at the restaurant/bar (with a happy hour from 5-6 - 2 for 1 drinks!) is a nearby pool with fresh spring water. They emptied and refilled it yesterday! No chlorine! And a stream that roars by our cabin. Lovely place with trails around the rainforest that we haven't taken advantage of.

Yesterday we drove out for our Day in the Life experience and visit to a school, all in the same little village. The family we visited first was making "moonshine" from sweet potatoes." We sampled the distilled liquid- fiery hot!! then it was mixed with a red something and a Bailey's like mixture. Very tasty! the father was there with 6 sons and Isobel the sister. She made some delicious yucca/cheese cakes fried and another light pastry. She also did handiwork using egg shells, coffee grounds, rolled newspaper - all kinds of crafts were around her house. They all  lived there in two or three houses.

The school was across the street. $10 of every trip booked with O.A.T. goes to supporting a school. When it started 3 years ago, this poor village school had one room. OAT has built additional rooms, toilets and running water. They now have 3 rooms, 60 students from Pre-K - 6th grade. There are two shifts: 7-11 and then 11-3. We saw a group of 16 or so and two teachers. They performed a little local dance with 4 of the students. Many of the students were workers' kids from Nicaragua. At first they were afraid to send their children, fearing they would be kidnapped and sent back to army or worse in Nicaragua. But they have been reassured and now send their kids, some of whom had never been to school at all. Very challenging teaching with so many ages and levels.

Education in CR is free and mandatory from Pre-k up to about 16. Uniforms are required in all schools. These kids had white shirts/blouses and dark skirts or pants. Alex said you can tell their poverty level by their shoes. I thought they all looked pretty much the same. Each child took one of us around the buildings and playground. My little boy was very shy and hardly said boo! They study science, Spanish, math and social studies. They have put in for an English teacher but so far no one wanted to come out here to the boonies!

We walked across the soccer field to another house, where one of the sons from previous family lives for lunch. We had shopped at a Comiserato (supermarket) for salad stuff with our budget of $16.  Then some began chopping up vegetables for the lunch. Too many hands so I cleared plates after lunch instead. The son who had been making the moonshine lived here with his wife, daughter who was very pregnant, her husband and a three of the kids from the school we had visited. We sat on an outside veranda. Then he had the key for the local Catholic church (they get a priest visit every two weeks. Since it was Ash Wednesday, we had hoped we'd find a local service somewhere but no luck!) So we walked next door and had a quick look at the very simple church. CR is mostly a Catholic country but not many attend services - only on holidays, special days, weddings, etc. This also seemed the same in Ecuador. Betty and I had visited churches in Peru and Argentina and they were PACKED!!!

At cocktail time around the pool, Juan Carlo our driver and Alex made hors d'oerves from Plantains fried with mashed beans, or tuna on top. Delicious! Too much food so I ate hardly any dinner. Can't do these 3 meals!!

Our pool at Sarapiqui

Swinging bridge over Sarapiqui River

Tiny frog!

Pina Coladas at the Pineapple Finca

Bats sleeping on ceiling above dining hall

Indigenous groups in CR. We visited a Maleku woman who carves these gourds. 

These red berries people chewed after tasting a sour lemon. It sweetens the taste. They are testing them for use with chemo aftereffects.

Painted rocks!

Our latest room. Betty can't get fan going.

Our lovely home for two nights.

The stream going by.

Beautiful yellow flowering Cortez tree

Pool and restaurant/bar

Unusual palm

Another palm

Sloth in the scope! with baby