MALAYSIA SO FAR!

This is what I’ve learned so far! Malaysia was a colony of the British and became independent in 1957. At that time Singapore was part (it’s on the tip of the peninsula) but Kim said the leader, Lee (someone) - he was Chinese - was VERY strong! The rest of Malaysia offered Singapore, a huge Asian port, to be a city/state and it did! and has stayed that way! 

In Malaysia, it seems much more modern and upscale than Indonesia/Bali. KL started with tin mining, in 1857,  which Kim said involves a lot of sand, excavating, and straining when the tin falls beneath the sand. There is a lot of MUD resulting from this mining,  Kuala Lumpur literally means, in Malay, “muddy confluence,” of Klang and Gombak rivers. Now not much tin mining is done. We noticed as we landed huge fields of what looked like palm trees. Turns out palm oil is one of this country’s main products. They also produce rubber and oil - like gasoline. 

Malacca on the coast was a major stop along the “Spice Route.” Magellan stopped here (we learned about this in the Asian Museum in Singapore) and he picked up a Malay slave Enrique Malacca, who ended up actually sailing completely around the world (Magellan was killed along the way and never completed the circumnavigation). So now it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site and supposed to be historically interesting. 

Kim took us downtown yesterday to see the sights of KL. Mainly we parked under the shopping mall at the base of the major tourist sight - the Petronas Twin Towers and Park. Built in 1998, they once were the tallest buildings in the world at 452 meters and 88 stories. There is a skybridge gaining them at the 41st and 42nd floors but we just took photos from outside in the lovely courtyard with a musical fountain (wasn’t running; being worked on). 

Same as everywhere.

Shopping in Chinatown

The other site we drove through was “Chinatown” but it wasn’t too impressive. We were looking for some “shophouses” that used to be wooden, but after a huge fire, I’m guessing there were shops on the ground floor and then the family house was on top. There are still some stone ones we saw. Kim pulled over and we got out for a few pictures. We also passed a few old looking temples. But really not too special.

Back at Kim’s house, we met Mabel, his 20-something daughter who was graduating the next day with a mechanical engineering. She had been doing an internship in Alaska when her class graduated so this was a make-up one for her. Mom and she were buying and arranging flowers for the ceremony. Picking up Jackson and Esther, we all went out to EAT MORE!!! Betty and I were still full from lunch. But we managed to eat some! I don’t think people in Malaysia cook! They have all these side of the road restaurants that are constantly filled. I think they cook so many dishes for each meal, it wouldn’t make sense to cook at home. You’d be preparing all day!! So they only cook special dishes for special occasions, is my impression. The kitchens we’ve seen aren’t very big. 

The next day, after a good night’s sleep at their lovely home, Kim took us to the bus station, where we were catching a bus for 2 hours down to Melaka on the coast - a UNESCO heritage site. This was a very important port on the spice route - along the Straits of Malacca. However, when we arrived and where Kim’s GPS said the bus station was, not too far from his home, it was under construction with no sign of where the current station had been temporarily moved! After many stops to ask people, and driving kind of in circles, we arrived at 9:15 - just when the bus was to leave!! He ran in to pick up our online ordered tickets; we stood by the bus so it wouldn’t leave without us; finally off we went!! Don’t like those last minute things when I travel! No one’s fault; I just get my adrenaline running! I knew the next bus didn’t leave until 1. Kim had to get home for the graduation. So we’d be sitting there for 4 hot, boring hours!! But all was well; we had a smooth ride there. Then found a taxi to our hotel - in a Buddhist and Taoist temple!!!

Amanda, our helper at the temple

Side entrance to our airbnb at the temple.

HIKING IN THE JUNGLE TO THE BEACH IN PENANG!

Out of sequence, but our boat ride back to the start, after our hike out towards Monkey Beach at the National Park!

At 7:30 Br. Kai Li showed up with 4 women, his students!! Two were nurses, PC (who works in London- here on holiday visiting family; and Yahweh (don't think spelling is correct!) who works with mental disabled patients. She left us after lunch as she had to be to work at 3. She had spent a year in India volunteering at a primary Buddhist school. Someone said she hopes to become a nun - not sure if it's in Thay's tradition. She has spent a week in PV. Her friends said she is a saint!!

Fern seemed the youngest - worked in an office and we think her company recently downsized so she's looking for what to do next. Jessica was the Malay free spirit!! She's 43 and worked several places around the world! She's deciding what she will do next. She really likes being single; has a boyfriend and her friends say "This may be your last chance!" But she thinks she's really happy being free, no obligations, not lonely!! Very vibrant, enthusiastic, talkative!! Lots of fun!

Breakfast was a stop at one of the local, crowded breakfast spots. Yahweh, I think it was, went off and brought 6 or7 dishes to the table. I ordered Lime Juice - delicious!! I was already sweating and it was only 8 a.m.!  AFter breakfast (they won't let us pay for ANYTHING) we had to select things for Take Away for our picnic lunch at the beach.

Then off we went to the north side of the island, maybe a 45 minute drive. It was Penang National Park where there were several options for various beaches. After a bathroom break, we headed off! It was about an hour and a half, all totaled hiking. Br. Kai Li was so helpful to me. Many of the steps were steep, and some of the paths covered with tree roots. He was always there with a hand or shoulder for me to grab!! He treated me just like a "mom."  Very sweet and thoughtful!!

Breakfast! from left to right, Yahweh, Jessica, Fern and PC, our driver for the day. 

Passed a fish farm.

One of the bridges along the way. This was the EASY part!

Another wooden walkway. 

At a landing, the beach we were headed to.

So we arrived at the beach but it was too difficult to swim. Nowhere to change. There were some kind of biting ants on the beach so they had to find another spot further back to spread our blankets. I waded a bit and sat on some rocks, but no swim. I was pretty sweaty and exhausted from the hike. But there were nice big trees to sit in the shade. Shortly after 11 they brought out the food!! Unbelievable how much they can eat!! and how often!! Even the Malaysian ants came to lunch!

Beautiful!

A swing before we left!

Amazing column of ants we passed on the trail.

Another view of the beach.

Yahweh, a nurse, had to be to work at 3. So she called some relative and out he came with a lovely  motorboat to give us a quick ride back to the car!! And I thought we had to hike all the way back! Heavenly!! On our way, we passed the Entopia park with butterflies and insects in a huge enclosure. We didn't go in. We stopped at a dam, designed by a woman architect, and tried to walk the spillway but was closed for repairs. Then we headed into town for ais kacheng, which I thought was an ice cream dish. There was a huge line waiting to be served. They ordered each kind; I said we'd only do it if they let US pay! We were refused!! Fern insisted it was HER honor to pay!! Doug had mentioned this was a not-to-be-missed treat in Penang! 

This SORT OF looked like the picture Doug WhatsApped to me! But the yellow is corn and the reddish-brown are kidney beans!!! Quite an experience!

Very popular treat!

The other kind that Betty got; with green noodle-looking things.

Inside the shop it was SO crowded we had to eat outside standing up!

The long line at 3 in the afternoon! People seem to eat ALL DAY LONG!

Guy wheeling by his construction materials!

Back in town, Jessica wanted to show us one of the Clan Associations! Down by the pier. I couldn't quite figure out what they were. When the Chinese began immigrating here, they built houses connected on stilts in the water. They would come here for celebrations, there is always a temple, now filled with tourist shops, but they have family names - clans. And people actually live in back of the shops, too. We visited the Chew Clan Association!

Showing the 7 clan associations that were built on the pier.

From the Chew Clan looking at the back of one of the others.

Plants and tattoos out near the end.

A peak into one of the houses. Very basic!

The Chew temple. People were making offerings of money to support!

A dragon boat in dry dock. Jessie has seen them racing out at the lake formed by the dam.

Jessica, free spirit!

PC - a nurse in London, on a home visit.

Must be Chew family members making offerings.

Another temple we passed. 

Betty was puzzled why they flip their wipers up (in MN it's because of snow and ice! Here it's so the wiper doesn't melt onto windshield!

FROM MELAKA TO PENANG

 We were all packed at the temple and waiting for our promised taxi driver (who had dropped us off Saturday and agreed to come back at 1:30 on Monday). To relieve my anxiety that he wouldn't come, I did about 30 minutes of walking meditation around the lobby and portico of the temple, while Betty kept watch outside by our luggage. By 1:40 (our flight was departing at 3) I finally went into the office and asked a couple of people there how to call a taxi. They were just helping me with their cell phones when he showed up!! Relief~!!

At the airport while waiting met a cute little Muslim girl just home from school, with her mom working at the airport.

3rd grader just home from school! 

Colorful snacks at airport. Didn't look inviting!

Haven't flown prop plane in quite awhile! Was like traveling in the 1960s. Even let me take water bottle through security!

More colorful snacks.

Betty in turquoise waiting at the gate. Very smooth, inexpensive 1.5 hr. flight. Monk on the right in red (from Ireland, blue eyes!) used his phone to call Br. Kai Li to tell him where we would meet him.

 They  we arrived, Br. Kai Li was right there to greet us!! This is a monk in another tradition (robes were kind of muted yellow) who now is following as well the Plum Village tradition. He has been to PV recently and Doug asked him to look out for me. He has been WONDERFUL!! Doug indicated he is a VERY busy teacher!! But he spent the entire afternoon and all next day with us!! A "student", someone whose family has been practicing at this temple (there is a teacher, Rev. Boon Cheng and 2 other monks living there besides Br. Kai Li. Br. Li is from Borneo, way north, near Brunei. He is of Chinese descent and has a couple of brothers and a sister. His parents, in their 80s still live there and he just came back from visiting with them. He says, finally after 20 years as a monk, his mom said he had made the right life choice!!

Having difficulty getting the pictures in the right place. I'll try again! Here is Br. Kai Li

Bodhi from Sri Lanka

Helpers who drove us, took us to dinner, showed us where the sites were downtown for WEds. and took us to our hotel. She and her husband run a bakery - she gave us a delicious loaf of sour dough bread with cranberries! What a treat!!

Rev. Boon Keng, 77 year old head teacher, talked to us for awhile. Showed us a picture of himself at 28 before becoming a monk. Very fit and agile! Told us to walk backwards, and left to right-sideways, as well as forward to stay balanced! 

Reclining Buddha right by the bodhi tree - roots are pushing it up!

I forgot Ann had driven us downtown to our hotel to check in and drop our bags. She said it was a very good choice (it's the most expensive one we've stayed at so far! ) Room very large with AC, FANTASTIC shower with rain head, and all kinds of jets. Has a jacuzzi tub but we haven't used it. Two or three English TV stations - a big plus!! 

We headed to dinner at a vegetarian restaurant where Ann and her husband bake their bread, Jack works as a waiter, and they ordered multipled dishes! I think they ordered one of everything on the menu!! We later heard the next day from the 4 women who accompanied us around that Malaysians eat ALL day!! Lots of tofu and vegetables!

After dinner, Ann and her husband drove us around the downtown and showed us what highlights in the UNESCO heritage site here that we might want to see. FINALLY we headed to our room around 9 p.m. Exhausted!! But feeling very welcomed by these wonderful Malaysians!! Especially Br. Kai Li!

Br. Kai Li is the KING of selfies!! with his long arms. This is Ann and her two daughters, a 12 and a 14 year old. Very cute!! And very shy!! 

MONDAY, 2/20: MUSEUMS IN MELAKA; FLY TO PENANG

Out of sequence: a bridal sedan chair

Chinese cart

Old bed

Selling various spices

Story of Cheng Ho (Zheng He)

And his grandfather

His expeditions

Ended up with a very full day! Our suitcases were packed and we had booked a taxi driver on Saturday who took us back to our temple, to come at 1:30 pm on Monday to take us to the airport. We went back to the cafe from the previous night (they said they opened at 8) to get a breakfast. When they opened the door, they said the kitchen wouldn't open for another 20 minutes!! Forget that! We started walking to town; no taxis passed us so we ended up doing the 1/2 hour (since it was still early and first museum didn't open until 9) walk. We found the riverwalk which was kind of scenic to the center of the Jonter Walk from the day before. We found a cafe that advertised an English breakfast. A pile of scrambled eggs, two hot dogs, a hashbrown patty, and a couple of pieces of toast later (I skipped most of it! Oh, forgot the baked beans - my ALL TIME HATE-IT food!)  But Betty had her coffee and off we went to the Cheng Ho (Zheng He) museum.

English historian wrote a book to prove the Chinese discovered America, and many other places before Cook, Magellan, etc.

This guy was a pretty amazing Muslim eunuch sent out to explore by ship with hundreds of men. But not to conquer, fight. 

Diorama of Melaka when he came.

In 1409 this guy published a map with much of the "undiscovered" world - did he meet the Chinese in Cairo?

Ming vases from Zheng He's time

Pretty amazing guy!

The museum was kind of cool - lots of statues of people of the period in action. I actually think I have a book at home (unread as yet) called 1421 about this!

Some tin animal-shaped coins

Chinese businessman selling his wares

Chinese medicines

Guide said pepper taken back to Europe could be sold for many times its cost.

When these "white bangladeshis" showed up (the Portuguese) around 1511, the locals were amazed!

A diorama of one of Zheng He's expeditions

Silk brocades were introduced.

All kinds of new spices were traded.

Tea, packed in cakes, was introduced.

After an hour, we headed down the street to Baba and Nyonya's mansion - a wealthy family from the turn of the century. They were called that because it was an intermarrying between Chinese and a Malay bride. There were three houses, side by side. The family donated this in 1985 but the decendants still come and use it once in awhile. The original furniture was there to see how wealthy Chinese rubber merchant lived. He had one son and wife - and 9 children. 4 are still living in their 80s.

Baba

Looking in from entryway to main greeting room.

Chinese woman waiting for the tour. Pictures were not allowed inside so have few.

Nyonya

Outside view of 3 homes. Customers entered one on right only. Family in the middle one. Servants on the left one.

Son's wife