I’m now on the train whizzing to Rome through the Tuscan countryside (I think!). We stop in Bologna and then Rome, just a 3 hour or so trip from Milan. The weather is gorgeous but hot!
We arrived in Milan’s Malpensa airport after a smooth flight over the Alps. Too cloudy to see much on the flight. We were met by Silvia and her husband John with some cold drinks and popcorn! So thoughtful! We split up in two cars – I went with Silvia – to drive to Vanda’s apartment. Vanda is the fourth in the team of Italian organizers, but she was away on a holiday near Cannes. So she gave us her apartment to use. At the apartment we met Miriam and Laura, the two other organizers. These 4 ladies are doing it all! There is so much to organize for just a 3 day event for 25 or so people – housing, food, transportation, the event set up. We had a lovely dinner that Phap Ban, a tall monk, who’d come from Plum Village, who showed us a video last night of his father’s art work. His father was a lawyer, recently passed away, but was also an artist. Phap Ban had videoed an art show around, maybe his father’s house, displaying his work. It was very varied, from sculpture, representational paintings, more modernistic work. Interesting!
Also there was Phap Bieu who had flown in from Thailand – he’s Italian and just “stationed” near Bangkok. The two of them had helped prepare the dinner: couscous with tomatoes, onions, an eggplant (aubergine) dish, a lovely green parsley sauce that they put on everything (I got the recipe – reminded me of Kerry’s pesto that she makes); lovely bread, and a delicious chocolate cake for dessert. After dinner, John left (won’t see him again – they live about an hour outside Milan towards the sea). Also Miriam and Laura went to Miriam’s house in Milan. Silvia stayed in one room, me in another, Doug and two others in a bedroom and Phap Ban on the sofabed. It was very warm sleeping, they don’t have screens. The others had a hard night with mosquitos – unusually they didn’t attack me!
The apartment is on the 3rd floor of a building, with a swimming pool in the back. The guys went swimming the first morning. Silvia and I swam last night after the guys went again.
On Saturday they all had organizing work to do: going to the park where the outdoor day of mindfulness will be held, and then meeting back at the apartment. I took off for the day, with directions to get to a bus, to the metro station and then downtown. I had on my list to see DaVinci’s The Last Supper and the Duomo (the huge cathedral). Anything else was extra.
I was told that you needed advanced reservations to get into the church to see LS. I found a tourist information place near the Castle Sforza. They told me the same thing but said, since I was just one person, if I go there, maybe I can be added to a group. So I bought a ticket for the Hop On-Hop Off round the city bus (20E) and got on, headed for the church. As I had hoped, I was able to get a ticket (6.50 E) for 12:15. Since the painting is so delicate (it looks like a fresco but apparently was a different method, a dry application, that didn’t last very well. It has been heavily damage, and many times repaired, starting in the 1500s. Only 25 people are allowed in at a time, for only 15 minutes, and, of course, no photos! I bought a book in the gift shop.
Since I had over an hour, I hopped back on the bus and did the red route around, passing the Duomo (what a site!!), LaScala – the noted opera house, and other Milan sites. Milan was heavily damaged from bombs during the war – but not the Duomo as it seemed to have original windows, or the church where the LS is. I made it back just in time for my ticket – actually they had gone in even though I was 5 minutes early. I had to catch up. I saw a group and thought that was my group. After eavesdropping the English guide for a bit, she informed me it was a private tour. Excuse me!! It was worth the wait! The colors are very pale but still! He was quite a genius! My book seemed to indicate his works weren’t really signed and people guessed, from the style that was very different for the times, which works were his. He did a lot of unfinished work, a lot of sketches. On the bus tour it talked about the canal system he developed, to go from one level to another, that is used all around the world. I know there was a museum in town of many of his scientific ideas but I didn’t have time.
One of the sculptures in a square near my train station was called “Needle, thread and Knot” by two American sculptors. A huge needle, with three colors of thread wound around, then it goes underground and the knot appears in the middle of a fountain. It was cool! It seemed to represent the fashion industry for which Milan is famous. It seems a very industrious town with lots going on. It has a long history including being ruled by both the French and the Spanish. Napoleon was here. But now I think it’s known for it’s Opera and Fashion.
After Leonardo, I got off at a nearby farmers’ market that is only on Tuesday and Saturday. I bought some strawberries and water! I kept drinking all day, it was so hot! Nearby I found a little cafĂ© where I had a cheese and salami sandwich heated and a coke, and my strawberries for lunch.
I had a long wait (the bus takes a break mid=day so I had to wait) to get on again, headed to the Duomo. I found a McDonald’s for the bathroom and a gelato shop for a delicious snack, eating it in the shaded part of the huge plaza in front of the Duomo. It looks very Gothic, with tall spires and many statues. It is constantly being cleaned, which I think is a chronic problem with churches all over Europe. The same was happening in Koln, with scaffolding over part of it.
Anyway, it was a gorgeous site and I walked around inside. I tried to go up in the dome but couldn’t find where the ticket office was and by then I was getting short of time. I needed to be back around 5 or 5:30. I walked through the galleria, a sheltered high end shopping arcade that leads to LaScala plaza. I know there was a tour of LS but again I didn’t have time. Hopping the bus again I rode back to the station, made my way on the metro to the bus and home. The group was still meeting, organizing in the apartment so I read for awhile until they were finished.
They hadn’t yet gone to the Hostel where the group would be staying so I went along with them. When we arrived, there had been a market there also that day, and the garbage men were cleaning up the HUGE mess, of crates, rotted food, etc. Finally we were let in the gate. This place used to be a psychiatric hospital, with high fences all around. Now it has some of the former patients working there, they run a restaurant where the group will eat, and it’s a regular, but private, hostel. It looked pretty nice, it’s 19 E/night and there were several people staying there. Most of the rooms were dorms (like 5 sets of bunkbeds). Doug seemed concerned that Thay and Sr. Chan Khong (the elder sister who had come from Saigon with Thay back in the 60s and is now in her 70s) usually have a private bathroom. But it seemed to be a nice facility and I think it will work out. Most of the conversation is in Italian so I don’t know all they were discussing.
It was late when we headed out, and I thought we were headed downtown so the guys could see the Duomo, at least. Doug had never been to Milan before. But we stopped for gelato near where Miriam lives. I had the most amazing DARK chocolate, milk chocolate and a strawberry cone. I saw it had a Trip Adviser rating! That was our dinner! I think I paid for it later as I wasn’t able to go to sleep. I was still awake 3 and finally turned on the light to read.