CAPITOLINE MUSEUM - TUESDAY

We then headed for Capitoline Museum, where ancient Roe’s most famous statues and art are housed in two palaces that flank the equestrian statue in the Campidoglio. this square, Piazza del Campidoglio, was once the religious and political center of ancient Rome. It is still home of the city’s government. In 1530 the pope called on Michelangelo to reestablish this square as a great center. He placed the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius as its focal point (the original statue is inside the museum). He built his grand staircase off Piazza Venezia. To the left of the mayor’s palace is a copy of the famous she-wolf statue, the one who nursed Romelus and Remus, brothers who founded Rome. 

Inside the museum (this one cost E15 so we used our second free admission from the Roma Pass for this), are the original she-wolf statue and original Marcus Aurelius. Legend has it that with his hand raised, Christians in the middle ages preserved it because they thought it was Constantine, giving a blessing! So the statue was spared!. We wandered past an amazing array of ancient statues and busts, beautifully displayed in this palace. 

We passed several times and saw from many angles the “wedding cake” or the monument to Victor Emmanuel, built to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the country’s unification in It was built as a push to overcome the new country’s strong regionalism and create a national identity. The 43-foot statue of the king on his high horse is the biggest equestrian statue in the world. The king’s mustache forms an arc five feet long!. At the base is Italy’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. We didn’t climb up it as we had had many views over the city and didn’t need more stairs. However, it’s gleaming white sheen and enormous scale provides a vivid sense of what Ancient Rome looked like at its peak - imagine the Forum filled with shiny, grandiose buildings like this!

We hopped a tram line from Piazza Venezia and headed across the Tiber to Trastevere, a colorful neighborhood that gives the best look at medieval-village Rome. We used Rick’s recommendation to eat at Taverna Trilussa in this area for dinner. We were early as usual - still can’t get used to the late eating in Italy, especially when we were basically doing two meals a day - just a snack in between! The meal was delicious! 

After dinner we walked around the neighborhoods and the central piazza where people were gathered around the fountain and musicians were playing lively Italian music. 

We headed back on the metro to our cozy apartment. And our long day of walking ended!

THE POPE AT VATICAN CITY

On Wednesday, Michelle had gotten tickets (free) online for admission to St. Peter’s Square for the 10 “audience” of thousands! to see the Pope Francis. I thought it would be inside the church with a seat but NOT! We left around 7:30 a.m. and took the Metro to the nearest stop. People were streaming down the road towards VC. We followed the crowd. 

After long lines and waiting, we were finally let in and found a place to stand up against a railing near one of the passageways. It turned out when the Pope appeared, he was in a vehicle and they drove him up and around these passageways so the crowds could see him. And he stopped to bless and kiss babies. So we got a few pretty close shots as he went by. 

The rest of the time, he was up on the steps of St. Peter’s under a canopy with people seated on either side of the cardinals. I’m sure they had special invitations from someone connected. There were also maybe a dozen brides and grooms who headed up front. I imagine they would get some kind special blessing for their marriage at some point during the morning. 

Many groups were seated in the center. They were later announced as pilgrims from particular places all over the world. They would cheer when their group was called. The Swiss guards in their colorful uniforms were around and many other police, keeping people from standing on the seats and poking out selfie sticks when the Pope drove by. We spent close to two hours standing/leaning during this audience.

Things were repeated in several languages each time something was said. The Pope gives a weekly address that he read I think in Italian. He then sat down and several church officials repeated his message in French, German, English, Spanish, maybe Portuguese - those were the languages I recognized. Poor Michelle couldn’t even move an arm in the spot she was in. I was in kind of a corner a few people ahead of her and had a V of railing in front to lean against. Fortunately I had brought my hat which gave me some protection from the sun. And because it is only May there was some breeze! I can’t imagine doing this in July!! 

When this was over, we followed more crowds to the entrance to climb the Dome. We paid the extra E8 to ride the elevator partway up. Then we had a 323 step climb between the inner and outer dome to the very top with amazing views! Seeing the semi-circle of Bernini’s pillars around St. Peter’s Square (not a square) from the top was amazing! I remember doing this in 1992 with Kerry, Geoffrey and Doug. I remember we had to carry a dress for Kerry to wear in the Vatican. Good times!

After descending from the dome (I sent a postcard with a Vatican stamp from the top), we headed into St. Peter’s. It was mobbed with tourists! In the center was a roped off area where groups of pilgrims from various parts of the world gathered and made their offering. I saw one group led by a huge cross presenting it to some official. There was some kind of mass going on behind the high altar so much of it was blocked off. You couldn’t go down underneath the altar where St. Peter is buried or walk behind the main altar. Also St. Peter’s statue (where people rub his toe, I remember from before) was blocked so I only got a side photo. 

ASSISI, ORVIETO and CIVITA DI BAGNOREGIO

Michelle and I got an early start - 7:30 a.m. - since Anna had brought over her car the night before. We headed out on Monday for our 15 hour day! She drove and I handled the iPad that Anna had loaned us to use as a GPS. I don’t think we would have even gotten out of Rome without it!! Our first right turn ended us right back in the parking lot!! 

Finally we headed out on the Autostrada north towards Florence. We headed off the exit on side roads headed to Assisi, up in the Umbrian hills. The early origins date back to the Etruscans and Roman times. There are several Roman ruins here, traces of a theater and amphitheater as well as some part of the ancient walls and Forum. 

During the Middle Ages it was the scene of strife and civil war. Nearby Perugia overcame Assisi and took many prisoners. Finally in 1500s, Pope Paul III placed the city under the Papal States which last until Italy became a unified country in the 1800.

Assisi from a distance

Old boat in front of St. Francis Basilica. No idea why!!

Carousel in front of St. Clare's basilica

Courtyard near St. Francis Basilica

Lusscious divinity window!

And more!

Divinity kebobs!!

Basilica of St. Clare

Our waiter at lunch!

Views of the Umbrian Valley

PAX outside the Basilica

Fountain in the Piazza del Comune

Love these trees!

Santa Maria sopra (over) Minerva - first a Roman temple; church built over it.

Church of St. Clare

Lots of steps!

Basilica of St. Frances, where he's buried.

Lots of famous art work!

Narrow medieval streets

Picturesque buildings

Narrower and narrower!

Bell tower and Minerva temple

Courtyard outside Basilica

It’s most famous citizen was born in 1181. His father was a cloth merchant. In his youthful years Francis enjoyed plenty of money, good times and became enthusiastic about a military career. He soon came to realize this was not his calling and returned to Assisi in 1205. He had been captured in Perugia and spent one year. He came back a changed man. 

After one festive evening, he told his friends he felt inspired to espouse a life of poverty! He wanted to share his earthly possessions with the poor, and spent much time in prayer. One day, in the dilapidated church of St. Damian, he heard, “Francis, go and repair my church which you see is falling into ruin.”  He immediately began to gather materials and raise money, including taking cloth from his father’s store to sell, to give to the priest at St. Damian. His angry father took him before the Bishop and a gathering of people. Francis stripped off his own clothes and gave them back to his father, saying God alone would now provide for his spiritual and even material needs. As he ran away, he grabbed an old robe and rope for covering. This became his only material possessions.

Old Roman arch

Beautiful!

Gallery all of paintings of John Paul II

View over the walls

Lit a candle here

Pulpit and altar

St. Clare

St. Francis

Francis originally interpreted God’s message to physically fix the church of St. Damian. But he later realized it was the church organization in Rome and throughout the Christian world that needed fixing. It was becoming too rich, too powerful, too corrupt and needed fixing. Some historians have said his return to a more Christ-like life, and his followers, delayed the Protestant Reformation by about a century. 

His message caused a stir. Not only did he follow Christ's teachings, he followed Christ's lifestyle, living as a poor wandering preacher. He traded a life of power and riches for one of obedience, poverty and chastity. He was never ordained a priest.

He and his brothers (friars) slept in fields, begged for food and exuded the joy of non-materialism. He promoted peace and restoration of order. While the church waged bloody Crusades, he pushed ecumenism and understanding. His message had an impact. 62 years after his death, at age 45, a Franciscan became pope (Nicholas IV). This place became a pilgrimage center since the 1200s. 

The Franciscan movement began, later with the approval of the Pope, and Clare of Assisi (in 1212) founding the Poor Clares - the Second Order of St. Francis. They set out on their missionary calling to preach the Gospel in foreign lands. He did this until 1221 when he spent more time bak in Assisi. In 1224, after a period of particularly intense prayer and penance, he received the marks of the stigmata, or wounds of Christ Crucified on his hands, feet and in his side. He died around On July 16, 1228, Pope Gregory IX declared Francis a saint and they began construction of this church where he was buried in the Lower Basilica. Later the huge Basilica of St. Francis was built above it. 

We visited the lower basilica after wandering through the town from the parking, This took us through a tunnel past some of the Roman ruins. This hillside town is very picturesque with narrow streets, steps and archways. We stopped in a tourist information place to see about getting a guide but no luck; we were on our own, with just Rick Steves’ guidebook. 

We headed to the Basilica and went to the Lower one where St. Francis’ tomb is. Pictures weren’t allowed so my photo is from the book I purchased there about Assisi. I read somewhere that at one point, his body was exhumed so the stigmata could be verified, and was. His body in the sarcophagus was hidden in 1230 making it inaccessible and safe from any violation. In 1818 after 52 nights of digging, the Friars, authorized by Pope Pius VII, opened up the area in which the stone sarcophagus lay. It was redesigned and opened to the public and then the crypt was replaced in 1932 with this design. Nearby his first 4 disciples are buried, as well as the noblewoman, Blessed Jacopa dei Settesoli, a devout benefactress of St. Francis, who was turned away on his deathbed because she was a woman, but called back by Francis. He is the patron saint of Italy. 

We wandered through the rest of the Lower and then the Upper Basilica with wonderful stained glass, statues and frescoes and paintings by famous artists such as Giotto. BTW, I forgot to mention the Franciscans also wear a rope belt with 3 knots to remind them of the vows of Poverty, Chastity and Obedience. Francis tried to live as Christ lived. Thousand of disciples followed him during his life and continue to this day. 

In one of the rooms was the Chapel of the Relics. Here are the tunic and kaput worn by St. Francis, all patchwork; a hair shirt used by him for penance - he thought he was the worst sinner of all; sandals made by St. Clare and worn by him when he was sick; a piece of chamois leather from the wound of the stigmata on his side; a white tunic worn during the last year of his life, a linen cloth, a gift from Jacopa dei Settsoli, a noble lady of Rome, used to wipe his brow in his last agony, and other relics. The two most precious are the Franciscan Rule of 1223, approved by Pope Honorius III, considered the Magna Charta of the Franciscan movement, and the Blessing given to Brother Leon in the Saint’s own handwriting. 

All in all it was quite a spiritual place. Down near the crypt was a Franciscan priest giving you a blessing, which we took. And also you could get holy cards of St. Francis and St. Clare. 

We then headed off to find a wonderful restaurant with an outside table with a gorgeous view of the valley around Assisi. We had a lovely glass of wine and delicious lunch! Unusual for my travel, the food in Italy has been a highlight!! 

We then went back to the car, stopping at St. Clare’s cathedral on the way that was also beautiful. As we headed across the countryside we stopped to take photos looking back on Assisi. Very well worth the visit! I had cancelled our stop with Angie and Cathy on our way from Siena to Cerrito Sannita because we were meeting David on Friday instead of Saturday. So I was glad we were still able to fit it in later in the trip, thanks to Anna and her loan of her car! It would have been complicated to get there with public transportation and taken much longer. 

We headed to Orvieto, recommended by Rick for the beautiful cathedral, another Tuscan hill town. We had a hilly drive, through rain, to get there, and Michelle did a great job driving!! We parked outside the town and hopped the bus to get to the center of town. 

PANTHEON

This was my 5th visit to Rome (1965, 1966, 1992 with kids, 2012 with Doug, and now) and I have yet to see the Pantheon. This is the oldest, best preserved Roman building. In Roman times it was a temple to their many gods. Then it was converted to a Christian church. It has an opening in the top of the dome (the oculus, or eye-in-the-sky - the only light source in the building) that last week, at Pentecost, rose petals were dropped through the opening to represent the fire that came down on the Apostles to inspire them to go out and preach Christianity. We missed it!! Didn’t know about it until after the fact! The oculus is completely open and 30 feet across. The 1800 year old floor - with 80 % of it’s original stones surviving - has holes in it and slants toward the edges to let the rainwater drain. 

Michelle and I went once to try to get in and the (on Sunday) and the line was very long! So we decided to skip it and come back another day. This time the line was short and we got right in. I can’t imagine how bad the tourist crowds are in Rome during the high season - May is just the beginning and they were pretty overwhelming at every site, especially on the weekend. 

Raphael the artist is buried here. There are many beautiful statues and painting around the sides. The first two kings of Italy, Victor Emmanuel and Umberto are also buried here. The ceiling/dome was used for the inspiration for Brunelleschi’s Duomo in Florence, Michelangelo’s St. Peter’s as well as the Capitol in Washington, DC. 

At the entrance are the 40-foot single-piece granite columns (quarried in Egypt and shipped down the Nile and across the Mediterranean) that show the scale the ancient Romans built on. The Greek-style roof says M.Agrippa built it but it was in fact build by Emperor Hadrian in AD 120 who gave credit to a builder of an earlier structure. This was a temple dedicated to all (pan) of the gods (these). Marcus Agrippa was the son-in-law of Augustus and he built the original in 27 BC. But after a couple of fires, it was rebuilt by Hadrian. After the fall of Rome, it became a Christian church (from “all the gods” to “all the martyrs”) I read somewhere that bones of Christian martyrs were removed from catacombs and buried here when it became a church. 

This time the crowds weren’t huge and we were able to have a pleasant visit. We saw the holes in the floor below the oculus where the rain that comes in can drain away. We went outside to get a photo with the fountain in the foreground and the pillars in the background. Nice visit! 

MICHELLE AND MY FIRST FULL DAY IN ROME, SUNDAY

Cathy and Angie had a driver lined up to take them to the airport for their Sunday a.m. departure. He arrived right at 8 and I took photos as they left. Later I got a text they had arrived in Dublin and then in New York - so home safe and sound.

Saying good-bye after 3 weeks together! 

Altarpiece in church near Anna's

Side features on Pantheon

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Unique pine trees alongside Forum on left and VE monument on right.

FOR SARAH - elephant in front of a church!

Roman Forum

Actual Forum was at a lower level in Roman times

Ruins of a temple.

Forum 2

Overlooking Forum

Michelangelo's Moses in St. Peter in Chains Church

Motorcycle bride in front of Pantheon

New priest, I'm guessing!

Pantheon - best preserved oldest Roman building.

St. Peter's chains!

Old building with lots of holes!!

Odd altarpiece in St. Peter in Chains, with skeletons on each side.

Steps up to San Pietro di Vincolo

Weird street performer levitating!

Trying to get a picture of our elevator!

Trevi Fountain - threw the obligatory coin!

Victor Emmanuel monument! (Wedding cake)

Michelle and I headed downtown to use up the rest of our 1/2 day on the GRT Green Bus, Hop on type. We’re getting the hang of our apartment,with its tiny elevator - you have to close in the two inside doors before it will move - and the Metro system - we have to be sure on the return that we take the JONIO one NOT REbibbia (where we had met David the week before). the line splits. I am surprised at the ubiquitous presence of armed police/guards/security people everywhere. One guy on the Metro warned us about our backpacks - keep them in front, they can cut the straps and take off. He had had his wallet pickpocketed. So especially switching lines in Termini, we walked with our packs in the front. I didn’t see any obvious pickpocketing going on but Rick’s book and signs everywhere warned us.

We got on the GRT bus again and rode around until the Spanish steps stop, I think it was. Then we started walking! I think I’ve rubbed two inches off the bottom of my feet walking on this trip! And my legs and knees have to be in great condition from all the up and down hills and steps!! At the end of the days, I’m exhausted; but each morning I’ve been ready to go again! It’s so great to have Michelle here for this last week in Italy! I thought I would be staying with Anna on my own, before going to Plum Village, as Doug was finishing up the retreats in Spain. But it’s much more fun to have her with me to share the experience! We ended up staying the whole week in Tito’s apartment (that’s Anna’s brother who lives way east of Rome in the country. By the end of the week, we were thinking the same thoughts, finishing each other’s sentences!! We need a break from each other!! :)

A lovely Pieta - not Michelangelo's

Entrance to Villa Borghese, "Central Park" of Rome!

Harry Winston store on fashionable shopping street

Beautiful flowers in sidestreet market

Borghese Gallery front

Picturesque pine trees

Church near Anna

City view from bus

City view from Spanish Steps

Church at top of Spanish Steps.

Dessert soaked with Strega!! Surprise!!

Altarpiece in a church

Villa Borghese greenery

Spanish Steps under construction

On our HopON/HopOFF bus

Angie and Cathy's airport shuttle!!

At the Spanish Steps it turns out they are under construction. We visited briefly the church at the top of the steps and took some vista photos from the top. We then headed towards the Pantheon. I don’t remember ever seeing the inside of this! Either in 1965 or ’66 when I was here, or ’92 with the kids, or 2012 when here with Doug and the monastics, when I first met Anna. But on Sunday the crowds were horrific! And the line endless! So we decided to come back. Outside was a group of guys all dressed in black with one young 20-something in a cassock - I’m guessing a newly ordained priest! We also so a motorcycle group - maybe 10, with one woman with a bridal veil on - just married? People watching here is incredible!

The Pantheon is the oldest, best preserved Roman monument/building! We walked around the back and saw the different layers of brick and marble pieces broken off. We walked narrow cobblestoned roads, trying to avoid getting hit by motorcycles whipping through and cars trying to squeeze by. We stopped for some lunch and a place close to Trevi Fountain. The meal was pretty forgettable - turns out the least favorite meal we’ve had in Italy! But we were hungry! It was a place definitely just for tourists! Like us!

We stopped for a couple of mandatory Fountain pictures (I’m remembering Tony Diminico’s daughter years ago getting proposed to in front of this fountain and then they jumped in! A no-no! The carabinieri immediately appeared to arrest them; but Tony’s uncle was standing nearby, a carbineiri from the southern town where Tony’s mom is from, and he settled with the locals! They didn’t get a fine! They are now both teachers in Bethel, and live across the street from Tony in Newtown, with two grandkids for Tony!

We stopped at the Borghese Gallery to see if we could get in, but you had to book tickets - soonest for us was thursday at We ordered tickets and moved on.  

We kept walking and WALKING towards the Victor Emmanuel monument, locals call it the Wedding Cake! It was built to honor the first king of unified Italy around 1840! He had been king of Sardinia and northern Italy, there is a great view from the top but we passed on it! We’ll climb St. Peter’s dome later in the week for great views!

We could see the Coloseum in the distance but turned left as we passed the Roman Forum on our left and right! We were headed to St. Peter in Chains (where Michelangelo’s amazing Moses statue is). As we did it, I then remembered all the steps you have to climb to get to the piazza where the church is. Moses was done as part of a HUGE plan for Julius II’s (pope) mausoleum. But when he died, no one had the money or loyalty or inclination for create this huge monument so Moses was moved to this church. Over the altar was  a case enclosing the supposed chains that held Peter when he was captured, tortured and hung upside-down (at his request; didn’t want to be the same as Jesus) on a crucifix! Most popular method for the Romans to get ride of people. This was one of the many “relics” we would see around Rome. It was a HUGE deal for crusaders to bring articles back from the crusades, and house them in different churches around the European continent! This created a reason for pilgrims of the day to visit that church! Sort of like Muslims trip to Mecca, etc. You wonder how many of these “relics” were even close to the real thing! Like pieces of the “cross” - I’m sure the Romans reused that cross and no one knows which one Jesus actually died on! But it’s what the Pilgrims believed is what mattered! If you believed, it could cause a miracle to happen for you!

We walked back DOWN to the Cavour Metro stop and headed home for a much needed rest! We have found that a good breakfast (Michelle brought some oatmeal for me so I’ve been adding fruit and doing Cathy’s “cup-of-oatmeal” breakfast in the microwave!) and having a late lunch/early dinner-for Italians (who don’t go out until around 9 for dinner!) is enough for us, with maybe another glass of wine and a little snack or gelato in the evening - holds us for the day!

Anna came over around 10:30 p.m. to drop off the car and keys for our trip tomorrow for Assisi! We also bought Roma Passes for 3 days at the local Tabak shop to use on Tuesday through Thursday, which gives us unlimited public transportation for 3 days (worth the price alone!! for convenience!) and the first two sites we visit free - we’re going to go to the Coloseum/Forum/Palatine Hill for one stop and the Capitoline Museum - E15 - for the other. Then other sites are at a discount like 30% off or so.

So off to be we went, so we could leave around 7 a.m. to get an early start to Assisi!