CAPITOLINE MUSEUM - TUESDAY

We then headed for Capitoline Museum, where ancient Roe’s most famous statues and art are housed in two palaces that flank the equestrian statue in the Campidoglio. this square, Piazza del Campidoglio, was once the religious and political center of ancient Rome. It is still home of the city’s government. In 1530 the pope called on Michelangelo to reestablish this square as a great center. He placed the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius as its focal point (the original statue is inside the museum). He built his grand staircase off Piazza Venezia. To the left of the mayor’s palace is a copy of the famous she-wolf statue, the one who nursed Romelus and Remus, brothers who founded Rome. 

Inside the museum (this one cost E15 so we used our second free admission from the Roma Pass for this), are the original she-wolf statue and original Marcus Aurelius. Legend has it that with his hand raised, Christians in the middle ages preserved it because they thought it was Constantine, giving a blessing! So the statue was spared!. We wandered past an amazing array of ancient statues and busts, beautifully displayed in this palace. 

We passed several times and saw from many angles the “wedding cake” or the monument to Victor Emmanuel, built to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the country’s unification in It was built as a push to overcome the new country’s strong regionalism and create a national identity. The 43-foot statue of the king on his high horse is the biggest equestrian statue in the world. The king’s mustache forms an arc five feet long!. At the base is Italy’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. We didn’t climb up it as we had had many views over the city and didn’t need more stairs. However, it’s gleaming white sheen and enormous scale provides a vivid sense of what Ancient Rome looked like at its peak - imagine the Forum filled with shiny, grandiose buildings like this!

We hopped a tram line from Piazza Venezia and headed across the Tiber to Trastevere, a colorful neighborhood that gives the best look at medieval-village Rome. We used Rick’s recommendation to eat at Taverna Trilussa in this area for dinner. We were early as usual - still can’t get used to the late eating in Italy, especially when we were basically doing two meals a day - just a snack in between! The meal was delicious! 

After dinner we walked around the neighborhoods and the central piazza where people were gathered around the fountain and musicians were playing lively Italian music. 

We headed back on the metro to our cozy apartment. And our long day of walking ended!

THE POPE AT VATICAN CITY

On Wednesday, Michelle had gotten tickets (free) online for admission to St. Peter’s Square for the 10 “audience” of thousands! to see the Pope Francis. I thought it would be inside the church with a seat but NOT! We left around 7:30 a.m. and took the Metro to the nearest stop. People were streaming down the road towards VC. We followed the crowd. 

After long lines and waiting, we were finally let in and found a place to stand up against a railing near one of the passageways. It turned out when the Pope appeared, he was in a vehicle and they drove him up and around these passageways so the crowds could see him. And he stopped to bless and kiss babies. So we got a few pretty close shots as he went by. 

The rest of the time, he was up on the steps of St. Peter’s under a canopy with people seated on either side of the cardinals. I’m sure they had special invitations from someone connected. There were also maybe a dozen brides and grooms who headed up front. I imagine they would get some kind special blessing for their marriage at some point during the morning. 

Many groups were seated in the center. They were later announced as pilgrims from particular places all over the world. They would cheer when their group was called. The Swiss guards in their colorful uniforms were around and many other police, keeping people from standing on the seats and poking out selfie sticks when the Pope drove by. We spent close to two hours standing/leaning during this audience.

Things were repeated in several languages each time something was said. The Pope gives a weekly address that he read I think in Italian. He then sat down and several church officials repeated his message in French, German, English, Spanish, maybe Portuguese - those were the languages I recognized. Poor Michelle couldn’t even move an arm in the spot she was in. I was in kind of a corner a few people ahead of her and had a V of railing in front to lean against. Fortunately I had brought my hat which gave me some protection from the sun. And because it is only May there was some breeze! I can’t imagine doing this in July!! 

When this was over, we followed more crowds to the entrance to climb the Dome. We paid the extra E8 to ride the elevator partway up. Then we had a 323 step climb between the inner and outer dome to the very top with amazing views! Seeing the semi-circle of Bernini’s pillars around St. Peter’s Square (not a square) from the top was amazing! I remember doing this in 1992 with Kerry, Geoffrey and Doug. I remember we had to carry a dress for Kerry to wear in the Vatican. Good times!

After descending from the dome (I sent a postcard with a Vatican stamp from the top), we headed into St. Peter’s. It was mobbed with tourists! In the center was a roped off area where groups of pilgrims from various parts of the world gathered and made their offering. I saw one group led by a huge cross presenting it to some official. There was some kind of mass going on behind the high altar so much of it was blocked off. You couldn’t go down underneath the altar where St. Peter is buried or walk behind the main altar. Also St. Peter’s statue (where people rub his toe, I remember from before) was blocked so I only got a side photo.