I took the train to Haarlem and rented a bike there. I visited the Grote Kirk. very old magnificent church where Frans Hals is buried (and thousands of other wealthy merchants who could pay to be buried under a slab in the floor of the church. According to Rick Steves, my travel guru, hence the expression "stinking rich"! ) Sounds good to me! There happened to be a wedding going on so we watched the end of it and the procession out. It was cool because the magnificent pipe organ was being played! This is an old organ that Handel and several other composers played, and 10 year old Wolfie Mozart chortled with glee when he played it, at the end of his 3 year European debut concerts. Apparently there are "stops" that regulate the sound of the pipes. Hence, the expression "pulling out all the stops" Don't ya just love Rick? Of course, his father sold and repaired pianos and delivered them around the world, so Rick knows a lot when it comes to organs, pianos, etc.
Out in the square in front of the church it was chaotic with an amusement carnival set up and in full swing for King's Day tomorrow. When I got back to Amsterdam many shops were decorated with orange balloons and bunting, people with orange clothing and hats, face painting, etc. As I was walking downtown this evening, I saw the weirdest vehicles! A huge cart was being slowly driven by one guy, and maybe 10 or so men and women, most with orange shirts, and obviously already feeling no pain were sitting at a bar in back. The bar stools were stationary bikes that they were pedaling, but not to help move the cart! It was like a movable open air bar! And I saw 3 of them on the same street!! Forgot to take a picture!!
I tried to go to the Ten Broom museum where a Dutch family hid several Jews - and the Dutch family was caught and sent to prison. But the tour wasn't schedule for another hour and I didn't want to hang around. I'll have to watch the move "the Hiding Place."
Next was the Frans Hals museum. It was actually an old indigent men's home, where Hals actually died. All the rooms are around a gorgeous flowering courtyard. There were other artists' work of a similar nature there as well. He mainly did portraits but in an unusual style that had an influence on the later Impressionists. Van Gogh, Manet and Monet all came to Haarlem to view his work. Especially his last works, when he was in his 80s had slabs and dashes of paint reminiscent of them. Also his posing of the subjects was unusual, with some married couples actually touching, people shown with all their warts, not beautified, but had lots of character. I think he had something like 14 children so he had to keep working up to the end!
Then I took off, after buying a not too helpful bike trail map for two hours or so out in the countryside down to Keukenhof gardens. I realized as I looked at the flower fields I passed that I was about two weeks too late. Many fields already had the colorful flower heads decapitated! My understanding is they do this to stop the growth of the flower but increase the bulb growth which is then dug up for sale in late summer. I guess they are small bulbs when planted. They (tulips) come from mountainous regions near China originally but probably traveled the Silk Road. One Dutchman got ahold of some and the rest is history! In 1944-45 there was a great famine when the Germans were starving the rebellious Dutch. 12,000 people died and many survived eating flower bulbs for nourishment!
At Keukenhof 7 million bulbs are planted every fall, laid out by a designer and 30 gardeners, from bulbs sent from all over Holland (display is different every year). It is open for only 2 months and then the bulbs are dug up and trashed!! Hopefully they at least compost them!! Seems a waste!! But they were worth the 2 hour bike ride!! It was mobbed but everyone was smiling, taking photos and enjoying the beauty! I ordered some to be shipped as you can't bring them into the country. I'm amazed at the variety of colors and structure. Can't wait to see them in my garden!
On my LOOONg ride from Haarlem to Keukenhof near Leiden
In pavilion at Keukenhof
Then around 5:30 I had to redo that long trek back to Haarlem on my bike. BUT fortunately I passed a train station, asked a guy if I was allowed to take it on THIS train and I did!!! I dropped the bike off, relaxed on the 30 minute ride back to Amsterdam Central and found a wonderful place for a delicious dinner and Heineken! I started walking to take in the Van Gogh museum (it's open late on Friday and usually not crowded) but it was just too far to walk and I'd only have about 45 minutes there. So I hopped the right tram to the train station to my hostelle in the suburbs. My room with 4 sets of bunkbeds (last night only 4 of us) is tonight booked with all 8 full! King's Day!!!
I think tomorrow might be a lazy day for me - maybe one museum and sitting by a canal!! Sounds good!
Tot ziens (Good bye)
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