2/24, Arrowtown, Winery

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Betty headed out at 7 to catch the bus back to Christchurch and Stella. I’ll see her again in October at our 50th Clarke Reunion, hopefully with Nancy and Mary Lou!! What a hoot that will be!

Our bus left at 9 for the 30 minute ride to Arrowtown. This was a gold mining town when gold was discovered in 1862, as the third largest after California and Australia (not sure where Alaska fits in). It was “Maori Jack” Tewa, a shearer, who found gold in the Arrow River in 1862. But - as is the way- a pushier European, William Fox, made bigger waves, and the town started life called “Fox’s”. 1500 miners worked the river.

In the 1860s the Cantonese were actively recruited to come here for the cheap labor. However, they were “invited” to live separately in their Chinese village, down on the flood plain near the river where in 1863 a big flood had wiped out some miners. One particular Chinese, very tall Ah Lum, built his home that we visited and ran a bank for the Chinese who didn’t trust European banks with their gold, and sold supplies. Out front was a “gunny” or toilet/outhouse that became the first public toilet. The European ladies would shop at Ah Lum’s when they realized they could buy Chinese tea that hadn’t been from China, through London, and back, much cheaper. They made the gunny big enough for the ladies’ crinolines under their dresses!!

When the 1880s Recession hit world wide, everyone looked for someone to blame. The Chinese were making their money and sending it home to families back in China. This is EXACTLY what the Brits and other Europeans were doing, but they ignored that. NZ instituted a Poll Tax of L100, when the average earnings were L3/yr!! Many Chinese left.

They had no main roads or power here until the 1950s. Now it’s a ski resort and peaceful summer, historic and vacation site. We visited the goldfield jail where minor disputes and drunks were housed. I walked around and visited the Catholic church. It is famous for Sr/St. Mary McKillop, an Irish nun, who started the St. Joseph order to set up and service schools in the outback/remote areas. Her little cottage was next door. She was a “feminist” who stood up to the bishops of the time and was excommunicated for her trouble. Later she was beatified so because Australia/New Zealand’s first saint.

After a lovely lunch of fish chowder and a visit to the historical museum, we headed off to the Gibbotson Winery a bit out of town, past a bridge where people were bungee jumping (a sport invented here in NZ). Alan Brady came to this area, that was only used for sheep, and against all odds planted his vines. Pinot Noir needs hot sun and cool nights, small grapes and this is the most southern wine-growing region, she thought, in the world. And he made a success, keeping production very small and highest quality. We went into the wine cave and tasted 3 different kinds, along with 3 different kinds of chocolate to enhance and balance the flavors. Very nice!

Back at our hotel, we were all settled in for a rest when there was a fire alarm. I heard nothing because the alarm in my room didn’t go off. I was reading in bed when an employee knocked on my door and told me I had to evacuate (we are on the 10th floor!). I threw on some pants, grabbed my laptop and bag and headed out to the landing. We only had to go down 5 flights to the parking lot and we could see the others 5 floors below us out front. Portia was behind me and was having difficulty because you could see through the wrought iron of the stairs. But one of the guy employees helped her down and we all waited while the fire department checked everything out. We think it was some construction going on on our floor. I couldn’t get back in my room with my room card so had to wait until someone came up to let me in. Then after I got back in bed, MY fire alarm in the room buzzed loudly 4 times. I called the desk and they sent someone to check but said ignore it!!! Grrrrr! No rest today!

We walked downtown to meet the group at 6 for dinner. Barbara, Leona, Portia and I had dinner with Peter our guide and had a nice conversation. He’s going to be a first time grandfather in a couple of months from his 20 year old daughter who’s in school! Both daughters live in Sydney. Interesting!

Off to Rotorua and a home visit with a Maori family tomorrow night!