FIRST DAY IN MANTA

After a late night partying on a Saturday night in Manta with Justin and Angie, we all slept in!!! Angie made a delicious breakfast of avocado toast topped with crispy bacon and sliced boiled eggs. Delicious!! We just spent a relaxing morning breakfasting out on their deck overlooking the pool and ocean. Even though it was raining, the view was great! We then took a walk down the ramp from the pool to the beach volleyball court.

Coconut water right out of the coconut!

Families out near a beach on a Sunday!

Later we went for a drive down the coast to a thatched roofed restaurant to sample an array of Ecuadoran food - from cerviche (LOVED it!), octopus and calamara, fried plantains substituting for fried potatoes eaten with ketchup, and an assortment of other rice dishes.

We then drove to Marianita Beach where lots of people were in the water even though there was some rain and lots of clouds! This is where you frequently see kite-surfers but none today. Justin bought us each a hacked-off coconut to drink from a cart rolling along the beach. A stop at a grocery store allowed me to pick up some wine, beer, oreo cookies, etc. for our Oscar watch this evening. So we're in for a relaxing evening.

UP TO THE CANAL LOCKS

Tried Uber again and this time it worked. $1.59 took us over to the Albrook mall to catch the Hop on-Hop Off bus at 10:15.  We got there early (after a wonderful breakfast of french toast, eggs w/cheese and a fruit smoothie!!) to check out the metro Billy told us about to see if we could get there by train to the airport tomorrow. No luck!! Betty was getting a water when I spotted the Big Bus outside the door. I grabbed my bag and dashed out but the bus took off! NOT even 10 second stop!! I was so ...... off!!!! There was a guy/guard at the door whom we had ASKED about what time the bus would be by so he KNEW we were waiting! He was absolutely NO help!! After a $10 taxi ride up to the locks (first stop by this bus) I was able to calm down!!! and BREATHE!!!

The museum (4 levels) explaining about the French attempt and then the US succeeding in building this "one of the 7 wonders of the modern world." - an amazing engineering feat through this pretty hostile jungle environment. This whole museum overlooked two rows of locks. Small train-like vehicles were running up and down on either side of the locks. Later we saw them tow a huge freighter through; watched them lower the water and come out the other end. This Miraflores Locks has been expanded in 2016 to accommodate the huge container ships.

Finally we caught up with the Hop On bus to take us down to the Casco Viejo, the old historical area of Panama. This did not have all the high rises we saw in the distance in downtown new Panama City. We decided to stay around this area and take a taxi back to Greg's when we stumbled across a wedding occurring in an hour, a 4 pm on a Friday evening. The church, Our Lady of Mercy, was beautifully decorated with white bouquets near the altar and alternating pews. We didn't know if we'd get in or not but hoped to kind of disappear into the back and watch.

The huge Cathedral was down the street so after a visit there, and a stop at a gelato shop for me (only pistachio and strawberry available but I made do!), we snuck into the church. Couples dressed mostly in long formal beautiful gowns were coming in. Everyone came in the side doors in the back until the bride appeared with her father; then they opened the large main doors! I teared up as they came down the aisle to Pachelbel's Canon in D, the same as Kerry had done 12 years ago! The bride was gorgeous in a long strapless (but with sheer sleeves barely visible) and long veil/train off the back of her head.

It was a very simple ceremony; everyone clapped when they were pronounced. It was then followed by a quick Mass. Ave Maria (also at Kerry's wedding!) was one of the music choices. There were a few other tourists viewing in the back by the time the wedding ended. It was all very festive and delightful! They walked across the street to the reception.

A burger place was down the street for dinner, with a Corona for Betty and Caipirenea (a Brazilian lime drink I favor when in Puerto Morelos!) readied us for the taxi ride home. Only $5 including the tip (my cell phone was dead; couldn't try Uber) probably was comparable to what they would have charged. We were happy to be home!

Justin, Betty's cousin where we're headed tomorrow, emailed her that they had felt a slight earthquake that occurred up in the Andes in Manta. Someone else also warned me that when they had flown to Quito, if it's cloudy, they won't land. They had had to return to Panama! Fingers crossed!

BTW, Greg has these neat water mugs with GLASS straws. I just knocked my water on the floor and it! Grrr! He said he ordered them on the internet; great reusable item; except when they break!!

PANAMA CANAL RAILWAY

At 6 a.m. Betty and I were outside on the street waiting for our prescheduled Uber. It NEVER showed!! My phone kept saying it was there waiting! The program seems to pick up some nearby business - in this case a dance academy - instead of where my phone is. I texted 4 times our address bur it said the driver waited 15 minutes and then left. As he had suggested, Betty woke Greg and he drove us over to the station. It seems like everyone else knew to get tickets online but us and one other guy! We were supposed to be there at 6:30 for a 7:15 departure, to pay an extra $10 to sit in the domed rail car to get the best view. No, we were told it was first come, first served!

Luckily, we ended up anyhow in the one domed car. We settled in and waited for Betty to get her coffee which they came around and served gratis! We noticed that other guy sitting across from us by himself. We had arranged for Jose to drive north and pick us up in Colon at the end of the train line. He then was going to drive us around for 2-3 hours to Portobello where there was an old fort and cusstoms house; then he would drive us home for $90. At Betty's suggestion, I went across the aisle and met Billy, from Belfast, Northern Ireland. He said he had been told to sit on the left side for the best view so we moved over to his booth!

He had no plans at the other end and was going to take a bus back to Panama City so agreed to share Jose's ride with us - $30 each! (of course, later Jose informed me that because we had the extra person, it would now be $40 each!!!! Didn't cost him any more gas-wise or time-wise, but we agreed. Bill said he had planned to give him $40 with the tip, but now would not give a tip!

The ride across the Isthmus was amazing! We were surprised not to see that many ships going through. Someone along on the trip knew that those big container ships would pay $500,000 - $800,000 per passage through!!  (I later found out from Wikipedia that figure was exaggerated. Average is around $53,000 depending on weight. It takes 11+ hours to pass through. It's probably around 15,000 ships a year that go through; since the beginning around 815,000 have passed.)Jose had already told us that Panama was such a prosperous country economically because of these fees, since the Americans had turned over the canal to Panama in 1999. This came about because the US had put up fences, guarding the canal and resisting Panama's demands that it belonged to them. After WWII the US forced France and UK to let Egypt have control of Suez. So Panamanians put pressure around that time for the US to turn over the Canal. They agreed in a treaty that turned it over in 1999.

The French had spent years trying to build (DeLessups - the guy who built the Suez Canal) tried first but gave up due to illness and death of so many workers in the tropical jungle.  First the railway was built and then the canal followed the same route. Jackson asked me, when I mentioned the locks (there are 3 the ships go through), which ocean was higher, Atlantic or Pacific. Neither! The locks are needed because  of the mountains the canal cuts through. At the highest point, they built an artificial lake (at one point our train had water on both sides). The US under Teddy Roosevelt took over the construction in 1904 and it was opened in 1914. Panama had been part of Gran Columbia (including Panama, Columbia, Venezuela and Eucador, then Panama was part of Columbia when the US got permission to do this.

We arrived at Colon, the northern point on Atlantic side and there was Jose in his yellow taxi (he's 59, has two children and some grandchildren). He headed off toward the east to the port of Portobello, stopping at ruins of one of the forts guarding the lovely harbor. In Portobello, a small sleeping fishing village we visited the church where the Black Christ held a place of honor. Only myths about where it came from exist but every year on Oct. 21st there is a parade through town and a huge party all night! Up to 50,000 worshippers and partiers invade the town for that day.

Nearby was the Customs house where the trade route across the Isthmus would begin, first through a jungle trail, then later a train, before the canal. Both the forts and the custom house were constructed of coral.

We did a pit stop at McDonald's (I ALWAYS stopped there in Asia because I could count on a Western toilet!) and had some coffee, etc. before heading back. Jose dropped all of us at the Alwood Mall near Greg's house where Billy caught the subway back to his place and we shopped a bit, had some dinner and started to walk home.  Hot, tired, Betty grabbed a taxi who drove us the rest of the way for $2! A bargain!!

I forgot Billy's great "Titanic" story when we stopped for coffee. Turns out his father, grandfather, etc. were all in the ship-building trade. His dad was a riveter, quite prestigious and well paid in that world! Until WWII when they needed ships built much faster and Americans came up with welding plates together to make not as sturdy ships but much fast. His dad pretty much lost his career. BUT his grandfather had done riveting on the Titanic!  when the ship was almost completed they held a lottery and his grandfather WON the ticket for passage to America!! But he had a wife and little kid. So one of the young guys asked and the grandfather GAVE the winning ticket, not even sold it! to the guy! The rest is history and, as sBilly said, he would not be there talking to us!! Great story!!

Forgot to mention this longest concrete suspension bridge 4 KM long, 3rd over canal. Not open yet. 

Back to our cool air conditioned rooms, with a little BBC news watching with Greg before sleep!
Friday we have to try Uber again to get to the mall to get on the Hop On-Hop Off bus around for the day! Fingers crossed!

OFF TO MESOAMERICA!!

The latest adventure had us (travel buddy Betty, from St. Paul, and previous travels to China + 7 other Asian countries two years ago, Egypt, Australia/New Zealand, and most recently she joined me on the last leg/week in Harpers' Ferry, WV, of the "Path of Happiness" (see pathofhappiness.org) into Washington, DC, last Memorial day! Anyway, Betty flew to Boston and Tuesday we flew to Panama on Copa Airlines (home base is Panama City). Flight went smoothly; we arrived in the afternoon and were met by Jose, a driver arranged by our Airbnb host Greg here in Alwood, a suburb of PC. Panama uses US $ as its currency so it makes life simple, with no exchanging money.

Greg is a California transplant who has had a treasure-hunting business down in this area searching for Spanish gold and other treasures! Now he does spear-fishing and diving (those spears are AMAZINGly heavy! And they dive just holding their breath, not with scuba equipment. He said he can do about 2 1/2 minutes!!!

His home is amazing, with two labradors, dad (golden) and son (black), who rule the roost, dashing in and out through several doggie doors to the enclosed backyard. Betty has her own room and bath upstairs and I'm on the ground level. Maria fixes a lovely breakfast with a fruit smoothie, omelet and a corn pancake, arepa it's called. The house has unusual decor

My room in Panama

Greg and his dogs

After a great night's sleep, Greg helped me order an Uber to take us down to the Causeway to a bike rental place. The causeway is near the entrance on the Pacific side to the canal and goes maybe 9 KM with water on both sides out to three small islands. Tourists can get ferries out to a couple of scenic beaches. It took me awhile (I'm still not totally acclimated!) to the heat and humidity! I wished I had worn a long-sleeved shirt as that sun just beat down!

In the distance was the unexpected skyline of downtown Panama with spikes of white apartment/business buildings. 

We first passed the BioMuseo, a biodiversity museum designed by Canadian architect Frank Gehry. He is married to a Panamanian woman but lives in L.A. We will visit this later on our way back. It was a beautiful ride, especially after mostly sitting (on the airplane) the day before. When we got to the end, there was a delightful Bike Club with  pretty young kids who were riding the same Causeway. Turns out schools are out until March for vacation, so lots of kids were around!

Yacht moored in harbor with helipad on stern

At the end of the Causeway

some of the prehistoric animals like Giant Sloth bigger than elephant

A huge container ship headed to Pacific entrance to canal

Closed Dinosaur mini-park on one of the islands

Cross between hawk and owl that I think is National bird

I was pretty tired on the ride back, as we returned our bikes and headed to the BioMuseo, that was a wonderfully displayed exhibit of the biodiversity in Panama. Lots of shopping at the gift shop!!

Having trouble here trying to use Uber! We waited at the museum for 20 minutes and no one showed up. So a taxi drove by and said he'd do the same drive for the $5 charge. We headed home!

I forgot to mention the night of our arrival, we walked the neighborhood spotting neques (tailless rodent-type animal about the size of prairie dogs) that are all around this neighborhood. We also walked by the Russian Embassy which is gigantic! Greg wasn't sure why they were building such a huge one!! 

We had the taxi driver stop at Greg's house where we dashed in to pick up a towel and bathing suits. He then dropped us at a local outdoor beautiful Olympic-sized pool! Which of course was closed for two days for cleaning!! We walked on and found a small restaurant to have a beer (and Margarita for me!) and some dinner. Then walked home! Exhausting first day!!

Greg helped Betty try to schedule ahead of time an Uber for 6 a.m. to take us to the Panama Canal Railway headed to the northern end of the canal at Colon!! 

THE ADVENTURE BEGINS!

THE ADVENTURE BEGINS!

On Saturday a few of the hikers arrived but the rest came today, Sunday. There was a Day of Mindfulness here so about 100+ people came. There was a 7:30 a.m. morning meditation, then DELICIOUS breakfast (my favorite meal here!! Oatmeal, raisins, nuts, almond milk, French bread, butter and jam!! and bananas, oranges and apples! ) We had it once here on the Sisters’ side but then it was “self-service.” I didn’t know where anything is in their kitchen, so was digging into my stash (eating Easter eggs!!) when Leah came and invited me and showed me how to do it in their kitchen. Yesterday I cooked it myself (she had some croissants to add) with added grape tomatoes and some cheese!

At 9:30 was a dharma talk given by Phap Xa, one of the crew, a Dutch monk living at EIAB (European Institute for Applied Buddhism) in Waldbrohl, Germany (I went to a teacher retreat there maybe 4 years ago - when I did the Turkey trip on the way home!).  Unfortunately, with my poor hearing, and even with the hearing aids, I couldn’t catch most of it. He is very soft-spoken and I have to sit in the rows of chairs towards the back, behind all those on cushions. Doug was taping it so sometime, maybe on the weekend, I can listen to the recording. This will be a problem for me throughout but, oh, well!! They all speak so quietly and I just can’t catch a lot of it! 

There was a walking Meditation through the grounds but I ran some errands in town, got a Sunday paper, some rope to tie things down in the trailer, a couple of locks for the trailer, for when I leave it detached from the car. Lunch was in the big meditation hall. By 3:30 the DOM guests had left and just the first hiking group and crew met. Doug did a great job, I thought, with a couple of get-acquainted games! First, we each introduced ourselves, where we were from, what inspired us to do this, and what aspirations we had for the trip. About 4 of the 10 hikers had never been on a retreat before. Some heard about this on the Path of Happiness Facebook page. Many are in a Sangha (that’s a group that meets together in their area, practices together, followers of Thich Nhat Hanh) at home and heard from someone there. Susan is from Canada. Sam is from Michigan. Victor lives in Ethiopia but I think is from Netherlands. Jackie grew up in this area but now lives elsewhere. There is Sierra, Eric, Max, Anna and Yu and Yu. I’LL FILL IN LATER!

Most wanted an adventure, quiet time, time away from daily life, doing something active with a group, be with nature! And living in the moment mindfully. 

First game was in a circle, say your name and do a gesture, to help us remember your name. We went around twice, and then one had to do someone else’s gesture and that person then had a turn. It was fun and funny!! 

Next games was sort of like musical chairs!! We made a circle of cushions, with one short! We stood in front of a cushion with one person in the middle. He went up to someone, said their name and asked, “Do you love your neighbors?”  If the person said Yes! the two neighbors switched places, with the person in the middle trying to take a spot, leaving one of the neighbors to be in the middle. 

If the person asked says, “No!” then was asked, who do you love? They would say, for example, “People with glasses.”  All those with glasses had to switch places, again leaving someone out, to be next in the middle!! Everything from toe socks, wearing a vest, having siblings, wearing plaid (Ramon lost that because he didn’t know the word “plaid!”), been on the AT before, etc. was chosen!! It was really fun! I thought it was a great get-acquainted game, great to use in school or any group!!

Doug then got down to the business of their daily schedule, telling them it will be flexible, and experimental, depending on how it all goes, the weather, etc. There will be two groups of about 10 each, so 5 hikers and then the crew. The crew has one person as Pacemaker - sets the pace of walking; two monastics are the Practice Coordinators - I guess doing the meditations, discussions, bells, etc.; then Caretaker / Contact Person - to make sure everyone is the group is doing okay; and then a Sweep (staying at the end of each group to make sure no one gets left behind) / Food Coordinator (make sure everyone has enough to eat - although everyone was bringing their own; but sharing is encouraged). 

The groups will be spread apart as AT rules don’t want large groups traveling together. So they might be 1/2 mile apart or so. I think they will even camp separately. There is a “Second Body” system, like the “buddy system” we used to do with school groups. So you keep track of your “second body” to make sure they are THERE, feeling okay, etc. 

Their basic schedule will be:

Sunup - Get up! and begin to break your campsite

At a bell, short sitting meditation - 10-15 minutes

Breakfast - each person cooks/fixes their own. Maybe jointly sharing hot water, etc.

And then the morning mindful hiking begins

Everything from the night before to after lunch is done in NOBLE SILENCE!  Only necessary questions, etc. but basically silent hiking.

Lunch will be silent for first 15 minutes and then mindful talking. Lunch will be more snacks, not cooking.

Weather permitting there might be TOTAL RELAXATION which means lying down, maybe a guided meditation for a short time.

Then afternoon hiking until arriving at next campsite two hours before sunset (between 4-5) 

Set up campsite

Dinner - main, hot meal

Then sitting meditation 10-15 min.

NOBLE SILENCE at sunset.

There won’t be any fires except maybe on Thursday, the last night together. I think they are mostly not allowed on AT. They will have little cookstoves to heat pots. The monks have been practicing cooking some of their “camping” food this week. The pasta alfredo was pretty good.

So tomorrow the hikers will start off around 9:30 from here, uphill to the Shawangunk Ridge Trail (I have hiked this before with Doug up to it) and then go along the ridge. A few of us here want to start with them for maybe a couple of hours and then come back. I found on the top of the ridge by car where they will reach a parking lot at the top and start along the ridge. I may drive there and meet them and hike along the ridge for an hour out and then back. We’ll see how it works out. Some were already practicing sleeping outside here. It’s pretty C>>O>>L>>D!! Glad it’s not me!! :)

PHAP LU'U ARRIVES FROM FRANCE

DOUG ARRIVES FROM FRANCE

So Doug arrived in NYC last Friday late and then took a train on Saturday to Rte. 128 in Boston where I picked him up. We stopped to get him a SIM card for the next two months (came with a free additional phone!) and some new hiking boots at L. L. Bean. Then home for him to be “Monkle Doug” for the weekend to his niece and nephew! He spent time with them and Duke, the golden retriever, outside and in playing!!  We had a lovely Easter in Hull with Jackie and Paul, the Easter egg hunt, for the 8th year!! and riding on the 90 year old carousel!! It was delightful to have 90 year old Grammy O there as well!

Doug and his sister had a lot of time together talking on Monday (she took the day off) and kids were in school. I think it was good bonding time!!

On Tuesday Doug and I headed off, with a cartop carrier on my roof, over to Blue Cliff Monastery in Pine Bush, NY, for the start of the experimental “mobile monastery.”  On the way, we stopped and did some ancestor research in New Britain (found the Schmelter headstone with Rudolf, Amelia, Helen (Olga’s 10 year old sister who died of burst appendix), and her brother George. We also went by her Lutheran Church there. 

Next stop was the library in Bristol where the Bachmans lived. We had visited before the cemetery where some were buried. But instead went to the library that had a wonderful History Room.  It happened to be opened and staff with a very helpful researcher who helped Doug find on microfiche the obituaries of Albert Bachman, who died at 43 of pneumonia after a brief illness (this was Bud’s grandfather, married to Nora O’Gorman who immigrated from Cooraclare, Ireland). Then Amadeus Bachman (Albert’s father) and one other (can’t remember!). They all lived at 41 Field St. so we went and found the actual house!! Very cool!!

Next stop was Newtown where we spent an hour or so driving around past the high school (new addition), by the new Sandy Hook school (Doug said it is on an entirely new footprint; I hadn’t remember exactly where the old school had been placed). and then out to Lake Rd. ( the outside FINALLY has been repainted by the new owners!) I met them last time I was there and she gave me a wonderful tour inside; but the outside hadn’t been touched yet!!) 

Finally we arrived at BCM by about 8:30 pm.  Doug was very busy meeting with the crew of monks here in our planning group - three of them had spent the previous weekend at a Wilderness Survival Medical workshop/training in Philadelphia! I’m in Golden Lotus in a 4 bed room all to myself. I had the HOUSE all to myself until Saturday when Aurora and Joachim (two Mexican doctors I met in Mexico City and they now live and work in CT) arrived. They are here for the first two weeks as crew. Saturday I met them at the end point of this segment where they left their car (about an hour from here south of Port Jervis, NY). I’ve met them several times at BCM and stopped once at their medical office near UCONN, Willimantic, I think, once on my way here. They are wonderful!!

On Thursday Doug and I went to pick up the U-haul 5x8 trailer. It was SOOOO noisy!! I’m hoping it’s just because it’s empty and won’t be that loud when stuff is in it!! We’ll see tomorrow! We then crossed the Hudson again to Wappinger Falls to a computer place so he could get a new battery for his iPhone. All Set!! Then we had a wonderful lunch at a Middle Eastern vegetarian place he found in Beacon on the Hudson! We ordered a sampler with about 10 little dishes plus delicious spiced french fry sticks, and stuffed grape leaves. I ate a little and Doug wolfed down everything!! (He hadn’t eaten breakfast!) Topped off with baklava!! 

Friday I did some errands in town and Doug went to NYC with a carload to pick up Ramon arriving from Spain. He is a crew member and I think I met him once in Barcelona. He has run the ski retreat for the past two years that Doug’s been on. I think a couple of the French monks also wanted to see some sights in NYC as hadn’t been there before so they were gone until 10:30 pm.  I did an hour practice hike with my boots just down the road here. Lovely Leah who lives here has invited me to breakfast and cooked me an egg each morning!! There are several young women living here; not sure if they are monastic aspirants or just taking a break from life outside. Several guys are also across the street at the monastic quarters living and working. So on to the Day of Mindfulness on Sunday and the arrival of the hikers!

JANUARY 22, 2018

So I'll be off again this weekend! On Saturday to join Barbara and then friend Betty in Ft. Lauderdale, along with Portia. Then Wednesday we will all fly to Cuba and meet up with two groups of 12 of us from the Cape and elsewhere on a CubanAdventures Tour for 12 days around Cuba.
Hopefully I can post my blog from there!!

Happy travels, again!!