Quieter Guilin

Yesterday was an adventure in taxi riding - trying to get all our luggage into a taxi. Pat took some great pictures of us crammed in with our luggage on top of us! I ended up in sort of business class on the plane to Guilin because I had to pay more for my ticket when we were hassling with Ctrip, just to get on the plane! No different service, just more money! Oh, well! We're averaging about $18/night for lodging so whatever!

Right away we could tell getting off the plane we were in a more tropical climate - the palm trees, more humidity, bright sun! We could see some of the rice terraces that contour the hills here as we landed. Today we are schedule for a 3 hour tour up into the hills and rice fields and to visit some minority villages. Can't remember if I said this before: there are 56 ethnic groups here in China - with their own language, dress, traditions, etc. The main one is Han, and that's the group you mostly think of when you think "Chinese."  They make up 95% of Chinese (don't know if it's related to the Han dynasty from about 200 BCE to 200 AD). Anyway, the other 55 groups make up the other 5%. They are allowed to have 2 children, rather than one! (I guess to increase and keep the group from dying out). We saw up in Datong, the Mongolian group, with higher noses, smaller eyes (to protect fromthe cold - This was explained by Michelle, our Mongolian looking local guide there). In Xi'an we saw the Hui group, Muslim Chinese, who wear white caps,or head coverings, there was a mosque there, and different foods in the Muslim quarter. We should see some Miao and Dong people here when we go outside the city. The Han mostly live and lived in eastern more developed China. The minorities are in the countryside and their cultures developed because of lack of transportation before all the train lines were built and mountains surrounding their villages. The most of the groups live in the SW in Yunnan province, where I spent time when traveling those 5 weeks in Feb/March in 2005 with Betty and Virginia. We saw many and varied, colorful minority groups. A Taxi guide took us around for a day in Lijiang and we saw a wide variety. I bought about 40 little dolls dressed in their minority clothing back then that are on my bookshelves at home. I will give them to Sarah when she is a bit older (so they don't get undressed!!)

Today we are going to see a group called "Long Haired Women". Haven't heard about them.

Last night we didn't have a lot of time but we taxied over to Solitary Peak - paid 65Y (they haven't heard of Senior discounts here!) to walk around this park with pavilions - crowded with people but not sure what exactly it was. But in the center was this huge karst (limestone hill that looks like an upside-down NOT sharp-pointed ice cream cone). Pat, Marilynn and I climbed the MANY difficult stairs (with lots of rests!) to the top, fighting the groups coming down! But the views of the entire town with the karsts shooting up all around was worth it.

When we came down, Joyce had befriend 3 70+ ladies and a couple of guys doing tai chi. One spoke a little English and so could translate a bit for us - at least our ages - which they are always so interested in. They showed us their 5 layers of clothing (looking like wool sweaters!) they had on and long woolen underwear under their pants. I remember hearing Nov. 1 Chinese put on their long underwear and keep it on until April 1. We, on the other hand, shed our layers when we arrived and had on short-sleeves and single layer pants! We shared our amazement at each other's dress.

We then walked to try to find the Li River that runs through town and down through the karsts to Yangshuo where we will stay for the next 3 days. On the way we passed another hostel so we stopped there for dinner of pork, vegetables and rice, along with Tsingtao! We opted for a cab back to our hostel.

Zai jian!

Notes from Susan - Xi'an

We spent the morning with our "angel" Angelina from CA. She's 23, hasn't traveled much except with her family to Japan when her sister graduated from high school recently. She studied biology and I think is deciding what to do next. In the meantime she took off and came to stay with a family in Beijing on her own taking Chinese classes. Really gutsy, I thought! She speaks pretty good Mandarin, it seems, and was very helpful to us on the bus (she prevented us from getting on bus 601 going the WRONG way and guiding the taxi driver back to our hostel). She had biked with us on the wall the day before and then asked if she could accompany us to the museum and the pagoda. She has been here since May and this is her only side trip. We encouraged her to contact the China Culture Club when she goes back today on the train to Beijing. She will go home mid-December.  Very lovely young woman!

We are off to Guilin today. As we walked around yesterday afternoon looking for an ATM to get cash and also an Internet cafe or some place to get our pictures and movies burned to a DVD, Joyce had a great find! While I waited at the ATM, she found this little hole in the wall with no English spoken but she saw a writing up on the wall with CD and DVD. When I inquired, they took me upstairs  and a helpful Chinese man downloaded my pictures off the camera stick,including the movies (think I got great shots of the dancing fountains Pat mentioned  below). I then had him burn 4 copies so we each go away from here with all my pictures up to now. Then I came back and rested before the show and Pat and Marilynn went back to the place. BTW, when I went with the man downstairs to pay, I only had 70 Y instead of the 80Y. He said to the girl "She was an English teacher here, make it only 70Y"  They are SOOO nice and helpful here! It's so contradictory to their seeming rudeness and shoving and cutting in front when going somewhere, driving, etc.

The hostel arranged for our driver to take us to the Tang Dynasty variety show - 10 musical performances - dancing and instruments - from the period of high culture here in Xi'an around 600-700 AD.  We had Tsingtao beer (3 of us) and popcorn for dinner!!! I remember this from 2004 when Virginia, Gail and I were here for the weekend and went to this show. There were tables all around with a lot of Westerners (big tour buses outside). The show was a bit over an hour - we dressed up in our "best" outfits and had a great time! Our driver was there to bring us back at the end and Pat had one more close-your-eyes ride through traffic through Xi'an. She did say even though she usually doesn't care for cities she's like all of the ones we've visited. We will be more in the countryside in Guilin and Yangshuo  before returning to Shanghai.

On to another adventure! Zai jian!

Letter from Pat - Xi'an

From: Pat Bartlett

Hi, Everyone,

Sorry my messages have been so irregular. I've lost a few emails, and some days I haven't had time to write on the computer, so I have just written in my journal. Yesterday I wrote for an hour and then lost the email. So this is only part.

Today was another wonderful day. Three of us with Angelina went to the Museum here and had a fantastic history lesson on the various dynasties here, starting with early man. It is mind-boggling how much information goes back 7000 years and how advanced they were even then.  I am so impressed by the fact that even then they were not only interested in functional items, but they also wanted to decorate them and make them attractive, i.e. their creativity was impressive. We learned about the King Zhou and how he conquered some of the tribes. Then, Qin Shi Huong really conquered all the warring tribes and unified China as a result. He is credited with being the first Emperor about 225 BC. Shortly after he took the throne at about age 13, he started preparing his mausoleum. Apparently, he was quite afraid of death and wanted to be certain he would be taken care of in the afterlife. That is the reason he had the 8000+ warriors, charioteers, archers, and generals made. The three vaults at the original site were discovered in 1974-76, but in the mid 1990's another farmer was digging a well and found another site, closer to the actual grave. This site contained a bunch of animals and birds, which are supposed to be protective to the Emperor, plus there are figures of various musicians and acrobats, who, presumably were supposed to amuse the emperor. Those things are in the process of excavation now, so we didn't see them.  Emperor Qin also gave China its official language - Mandarin- and standardized weights and measures through the country and created roads. He was good in those ways, but he was also a ruthless despot, who killed the workers on his burial ground, so that they would keep the secret of it. He died at age 51, so it was fortunate that he had planned ahead, but all the things he did which were supposed to increase longevity, obviously weren't that successful. The Qin Dynasty was followed by the Han and then the Tang, the ultimate in culture and creativity. Supposedly, if you ask Chinese citizens which Dynasty they might like to have lived in, most will say the Tang Dynasty. The museum certainly showed beautiful examples of their work. The museum did an excellent job showing the evolution of culture and abilities throughout the centuries, so that one could form comparisons.

On the way to the Goose Pagoda across and down the square, we went by a huge area of fountains.  I had just said that I had heard the dancing waters here are fantastic.  Just then, the fountains sprang forth to Tchaikovky and other music. It went on for about 20 minutes and was really beautiful. We decided someone was definitely watching out for us.

Then on to the Goose Pagoda, a many layered thing that was founded by a man called Zhoung who was one of Buddha's disciples. We walked through the expansive grounds and went into the many small places of worship. The one that was most impressive to me had a mural entirely made of naturally colored jade, depicting the life of Buddha, from conception by an elephant, birth from his mother's armpit to his asceticism and then enlightenment. The jade was in all shades of green, white, orange, yellow, etc. and the sculpturing was extraordinary, really detailed.

After that, we came back to the Hostel and had lunch. Then I took upon myself the task of organizing my suitcase. Things are getting really tight, so I tried to put the heavy things in my suitcase for checking tomorrow, and the lighter things in my tote bag and backpack. It seems to have worked, although it is a pain to have three things to carry. Tonight we go to a Tang Dynasty show.

Tomorrow, we leave for Guilin by plane.  That is our last stop before heading for Shanghai on the day before we fly home. The pace will be more relaxed after this, which should be nice, although I have loved seeing everything that we have.  

Qin She Huang

Yesterday we had a great breakfast here at the hostel, scrambled eggs, muesli, fruit, toast. Off we went on our tour with Zza-Zza our pretty fair English speaking guide, in a van with Angelina, a Chinese-American from California volunteering in a medical center in Beijing for the past 6 months, and a French couple who are here for their 5th time, from the Provence area of France. We drove out and then walked, walked, walked until we entered Pit 2, the least interesting and developed of the excavations at the Terra Cotta Warriors. Back in 250 BCE there was a guy who declared himself First Emperor - Qin She Huang - who was either a bad guy or good guy depending on how you look at it. Good:  He unified the 6 areas of China into one unit (lots of warfare for that! and I'm sure millions killed!); established a common currency; standardized the Mandarin language; connected the individual pieces of wall into the Great Wall (anyone who died during this got buried right in the wall - no big ceremony!).  Bad:  He declared himself First Emperor (hence, Chin, his surname, became China), prepared his tomb by conscripting 8000 artisans to mold, paint thousands of warriors, chariots, horses for the afterlife - and then wanted to keep them secret so he killed the artists when they were finished. They knew it so they painted the faces as each other and sometimes inscribed their names on the shoulders or somewhere of the warrior they were creating. They were created of terracotta clay in 3 parts, bottom, midsection and head and then assembled later. They were hollow, fired and then painted brilliant colors (all of which has faded within 1/2 hour of being exposed to air 2000+ years later!) They were arranged in front of his hill/pyramid shaped tomb (it hasn't been opened since he surrounded it with a moat of mercury - they are thinking of opening it in 20 years or so). Walls divided the rows of 4 abreast soldiers - archers, generals, infantry , charioteers. Pit 2 has some of the horses but many are on loan to various museums around the world. And you could see the broken pieces lying askew as they were found. Many German artisans especially work at night on restoring more. It will take another 50 years or so. BTW, in 1976 a Chinese peasant was digging a well and punched through to the first horse that was found! He was at Pit 1 and, for a price, you could buy his heavy book, and get an autograph. We sneaked a picture (last trip he wanted to charge me just to take his picture) and passed on the book. He made his fortune with that digging, although he was paid only 10Y by the government but later relocated to another farm, given a house, and has spent his time autographing at the site! Pit 1 was the piece d'resistance - rows and rows of upright restored (but not colorful) warriors in position, each face completely different. She said they painted all 56 minority group warriors in the mix. We took lots of pictures.

Anyway, these clay soldiers were buried under grass mats, and then soil to hide them. During one of his inspections Qin She Huang died (at 55) because he thought mercury would give him longevity - instead it killed him early! So some of the warriors were missing heads! Then his successor wasn't successful, the warriors were plundered and knocked over (but not the tomb because of the mercury moat), and then covered up for centuries into grassland, farms, etc. Until 1976! So this has now surpassed the Great Wall as top tourist destination (trap!) in China! Considered the 8th wonder of the world, said Zza-Zza.

Oh, another bad: Qin destroyed ancient texts telling history prior to this, killed 450 scholars who disagreed with him on this, and was generally a despot!

So you decide!!

But China remains endlessly fascinating!

Our bus let Pat, Marilynn, Angelina and me off at the East gate of the city wall, used to surround a palace, like the Forbidden City. We rented bikes there to bike around the top of the wall and look down on both the old and outside the new. Marilynn and Pat hadn't biked in years but since there was no traffic and it was flat, albeit bumpy, they did great! After about an hour or so, we reached the South Gate and descended to what looked like a reenactment of a Tang Dynasty (the one where Xi'an was capital and seems like the apogee of Chinese civilization - around 600 AD) changing of the guards, with soldiers in costume doing marching routines. There were some drummers performing as well. Little unexpected perk!

We walked with Angelina to the Starbucks by the Bell Tower where we were to meet Joyce at 5:30. The 4 of us then wandered to the Muslim quarter and ordered dinner of lamb veggies, etc. Then shopped along the way, buying more turtles (I'm up to 4 now for Jackson!) heading for the Great Mosque (it was closed so back tomorrow maybe).

Today after breakfast we head for the Shaanxi Museum and the Big Goose Pagoda by local bus. Another adventure!

Boogered! - our new verb

Joyce, first, and now me have come down with a cold. So when we're passing around shared nuts, eating off common plates with chopsticks, our new word, thanks to Pat! is "Is it boogered already?"  :)  That means did you put it in your mouth or put your hands on it already so it's filled with your germs!!! It reminds me of the cootie thing we used to pass around! It makes us laugh when we all say, "Oh, you boogered that!!"

Pat's entry

Hi, all,

We left Beijing today and had an uneventful trip to Xian. Because of Ctrip foulups, we had to take two different flights an hour apart, but we rendez-voused successfully. My old black polartec pulled off my backpack and got left on the plane, so we wasted at least an hour trying to retrieve it. It was one of the end of school CCA rejects of about 10 or more years ago, and the only thing in the pockets were hand gel, wet ones, and toilet paper, so it was hardly worth the effort, but it is warm and useful, and replacing it would have been a pain. We took shuttle bus and then walked to the Hun Tang Inn, which is a very nice hostel with very new, clean rooms and good food. It is near the main Bell Tower square and the Muslim district, which is a lively place. It was sad to leave Beijing, because our Hostel had such a wonderful location--near to everything.

Yesterday we had a fantastic day on a private tour to the old Beijing streets by pedicab and then visited the house of an 82 year old woman. Then we toured the Forbidden City, the home extensive home of the Emperors. It was awesome.

Tomorrow we take a tour to see the Terra Cotta warriors and some emperor's tomb. The warriors are the thing I have most anticipated, so I hope I am not disappointed.

Shopping for pearls....

Hired driver Lee again and he showed up right on time at 9 at the hostel. He took us in the traffic to Hongqoia (sp?) market, the Pearl Market. I was amazed I remember where Sandy's place was on the 4th floor. She wasn't there (has had a new baby boy) but the girls took good care of us. I was there to buy a couple of pair of pearl earrings, but all 4 of us ended up buying several things. I first heard about Sandy on my way to China the first time from a stewardess who gave me her name and location. She would buy pearls and take them home and sell them for huge profits. On the Datong trip, I spoke with Derrick who worked at the American Embassy in Beijing for a couple of months. His mom was a stewardess and he said many of them would do it. They don't have to go through customs. So it's hugely profitable, they frequently make more money selling pearls than in their regular job.

Lee then was waiting for us as we came out. No time for lunch, but we gave thanks quickly at the Temple of Heaven for our wonderful trip so far and headed to the airport. No luck trying to change our tickets to all be on the same flight. So Joyce and Marilynn headed off together on the first flight and were waiting for us at the baggage area when we arrived. Non eventful flight, weren't sure if we were looking at pieces of the Great Wall from the air but it was a pretty clear flight, so maybe.

Great sweet and sour chicken for dinner at the hostel with a draft Tsingtao! Walked around, got cash at ATM to pay for Terracotta Warriors trip today. Good night's sleep!