Saturday, November 12, 2011

Letter from Pat - Xi'an

From: Pat Bartlett

Hi, Everyone,

Sorry my messages have been so irregular. I've lost a few emails, and some days I haven't had time to write on the computer, so I have just written in my journal. Yesterday I wrote for an hour and then lost the email. So this is only part.

Today was another wonderful day. Three of us with Angelina went to the Museum here and had a fantastic history lesson on the various dynasties here, starting with early man. It is mind-boggling how much information goes back 7000 years and how advanced they were even then.  I am so impressed by the fact that even then they were not only interested in functional items, but they also wanted to decorate them and make them attractive, i.e. their creativity was impressive. We learned about the King Zhou and how he conquered some of the tribes. Then, Qin Shi Huong really conquered all the warring tribes and unified China as a result. He is credited with being the first Emperor about 225 BC. Shortly after he took the throne at about age 13, he started preparing his mausoleum. Apparently, he was quite afraid of death and wanted to be certain he would be taken care of in the afterlife. That is the reason he had the 8000+ warriors, charioteers, archers, and generals made. The three vaults at the original site were discovered in 1974-76, but in the mid 1990's another farmer was digging a well and found another site, closer to the actual grave. This site contained a bunch of animals and birds, which are supposed to be protective to the Emperor, plus there are figures of various musicians and acrobats, who, presumably were supposed to amuse the emperor. Those things are in the process of excavation now, so we didn't see them.  Emperor Qin also gave China its official language - Mandarin- and standardized weights and measures through the country and created roads. He was good in those ways, but he was also a ruthless despot, who killed the workers on his burial ground, so that they would keep the secret of it. He died at age 51, so it was fortunate that he had planned ahead, but all the things he did which were supposed to increase longevity, obviously weren't that successful. The Qin Dynasty was followed by the Han and then the Tang, the ultimate in culture and creativity. Supposedly, if you ask Chinese citizens which Dynasty they might like to have lived in, most will say the Tang Dynasty. The museum certainly showed beautiful examples of their work. The museum did an excellent job showing the evolution of culture and abilities throughout the centuries, so that one could form comparisons.

On the way to the Goose Pagoda across and down the square, we went by a huge area of fountains.  I had just said that I had heard the dancing waters here are fantastic.  Just then, the fountains sprang forth to Tchaikovky and other music. It went on for about 20 minutes and was really beautiful. We decided someone was definitely watching out for us.

Then on to the Goose Pagoda, a many layered thing that was founded by a man called Zhoung who was one of Buddha's disciples. We walked through the expansive grounds and went into the many small places of worship. The one that was most impressive to me had a mural entirely made of naturally colored jade, depicting the life of Buddha, from conception by an elephant, birth from his mother's armpit to his asceticism and then enlightenment. The jade was in all shades of green, white, orange, yellow, etc. and the sculpturing was extraordinary, really detailed.

After that, we came back to the Hostel and had lunch. Then I took upon myself the task of organizing my suitcase. Things are getting really tight, so I tried to put the heavy things in my suitcase for checking tomorrow, and the lighter things in my tote bag and backpack. It seems to have worked, although it is a pain to have three things to carry. Tonight we go to a Tang Dynasty show.

Tomorrow, we leave for Guilin by plane.  That is our last stop before heading for Shanghai on the day before we fly home. The pace will be more relaxed after this, which should be nice, although I have loved seeing everything that we have.  

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