Last day in Kyoto

Today Betty tested her map skills on the bus system here. We got a one day bus pass and we used it thoroughly. She had me up and out by 7 or so so we could get to this Zen garden way on the northwest corner of K. by opening at 8. After a couple of bus switches and some walking we got there before the tour buses. It was neat! a garden with 15 rocks and while pebbles (I've got plans for my zen garden at home now!). The rocks represent mountains and the pebbles, the sea. It was raked to perfection and mostly silent! We enjoyed it. Then on to the Golden Temple - not so quiet and peaceful with the tourists moving in, plus lots of school groups. 5 girls took pictures with us and asked us questions. They go out on these field trips but they always have a list of questions to practice their English. We've run into it a few times. Nice students! On to one more temple/garden - that has a bamboo forest we wanted to see. I really love the Japanese gardens. The trees are hand picked for the dead needles (on the pines). The stones are raked each day, leaves picked up. Hoards of workers maintaining them. Really lovely! And the Japanese people are going NUTS over the beautiful maple trees. Today we had some sunlight finally so could see the brilliant colors. They said it was a exceptionally warm fall so the colors are really late. But now people are out traveling and looking. We rode the train back and then a bus to our hostel and had some Thai food for lunch. We were back here for a free 3 p.m. 90 minute tour by one of the workers at the desk here (we think so she can practice her English). There were 5 Australians and Brett from NY and the two of us. We went to the Gion district where the geisha (here called Geiko and Maiko (geisha in training) work. She explained that girls at around 13, 14 decide if they want to be a maiko. They are interviewed with their family (they don't get to see their family during their couple of years training). Once they are accepted, it's very rigorous dance, musical instrument, tea ceremony, etc. training. they live in one of the houses together with other trainees and have their expenses paid for them by a patroness/housemother/former geiko. they get no pay during this training. Their real hair is used and done in the winter to last about 10 days, in the summer 4 days. Very elaborate hairdos. they have to sleep on hard propped up pillow things, with rice scattered on the floor around so they can be found out if their head slips! All part of the rigorous training! At about age 20 they can decide if they want to continue as a geiko and earn money. they then have to pay back their patroness. then they can earn money on their own working at places in 5 different areas of Kyoto. We glimpsed a couple hustling to work around 6 p.m. but we weren't to hassle them or stop them for pictures. Other women were dressed as geiko without the makeup and just walk around the area for fun. We then opted to go to Gion Corner, to see a show, for Y3,150 that showed tea ceremony, dancing, lute playing, a comedy sketch, classical music from old Japan, etc. It was interesting! Not as elaborate as Chinese shows but interesting. Only way we would get to see a geisha of any sort. Our tour guide also took us to a Shinto shrine and showed us the proper way to pray, ring the bell, etc. She also showed us an elaborate restaurant where only previous customers can get in (so their needs are met perfectly) and geishas perform. It cost about Y100,000 to arrange an evening! We hoped to see some customers or geisha going in but didn't. Back in the hostel Betty and I are finishing her bottle of saki and head to Hikone tomorrow for one night. Winding down! Getting tired sooner each day. Will be really ready for a break! Sayonara!