ON TO PUNAKHA OVER THE DOCHULA PASS (10,000 FT) JAN. 12

So I don't forget, and can teach J and S to count to 10 in Bhutanese:

1 = chee    2= nge(knee) 3 = soom  4 = zhi (jhee) 5 = nga (na) 6 = dru  7 = dhoen (doon)
8 = ghay (short a)   9 = goo   10 = chotum

CRing gave me these at dinner tonight.

Started our day driving up up out of Thimphu, stopping for a photo op looking back at the big Buddha. This road to Punakha is being widened and we were told to be prepared for winding and bumpy. That was an understatement but the driver had to go very slowly so Barbara and Mary Alice, who sat in front and were worried about motion, did fine.

Buddha from a distance

Bhutan license and writing

After an hour we stopped for "Tea and Pee", said C Ring at the pass. There were 108 stupas there honoring the 10 soldiers who fought against the Indian Terrorists who had invaded, fighting against India in 2008 for independence for some state. The terrorists were captured and removed from Bhutan. We had a spectacular day for photos, sunny and the fog hadn't come up from the valley yet. We were looking at the northernmost peaks bordering Tibet. Tibet and Bhutan used to have great relations and trade. The original settler of Bhutan, Zhabdrung, was recognized inTibet at 12 yrs of age as the reincarnation of their previous religious leader. But the secular leader favored another candidate so Zhabdrung fled to Bhutan in 1616, bringing with him a special relic, some kind of bone with an impression on it.

108 Stupas at the pass

So when he got here, he built dzongs or fortresses. The Tibetans tried to invade and recapture the relic but in 1649 were defeated and never again tried. The beautifully restored fort, Punakha Dzong or Palace of Great Happiness was what he built and defended. It was both the religious and administrative center of Bhutan in the past. C Ring said it was mainly a dark fort until in 1994, beautiful paintings, statues and wooden carvings and decorations were added. Zhabdrung said after ruling for a number of years that he was going on retreat. If he was needed for a question or decision, his attendant will ask and return his answer. So he disappeared for 50 years (actually died but it was not announced, since he had unified the country and the higher ups didn't want warfare to break out again. In the fort, C Ring pointed out a window with a picture of the two kings where he supposedly died. Only 4 people are allowed in the room, the two kings (father and son), the Chief Abbott and the caretaker. This happened in 1651. Since then, between 1651 and 1907 54 rulers were appointed, 22 of them assassinated.

Current 5th King and Chief Abbott

Oldest fort 1629 and now a monastery

C Ring teaching outside the temple/fort. No photos allowed inside.

Entrance to main temple. We put on our "temple socks"

Finally in 1907, the warlords decided they would try something different instead of this constant warfare and would appoint the strongest leader as King and institute a monarchy. The first King with family name Wangchuck and was appointed because of his father's success and his. In 1865 the British wanted a trade route to Tibet and came in with soldiers. Finally in November a treaty was sighted and the British gave 50,000 rupees for the land they took (the low flatlands of the south). The king's father was named SIR by the British. So his son became the first King. The current 5th king, 35, has the same surname. His father abdicated in 2008 but still is an adviser to his son.

Things were primitive here with not much advancement for the people until the 1960s. The 4th king brought in the Era of Modernization - focusing on free education, free health care, electricity (development of hydroelectric dams). In 1960 the GNP was $51/yr and now it's $2,500/yr. C Ring said even though his mother had Stage 3 ovarian cancer, the government sent her to India, with him as an escort, for treatment, all free. She didn't survive and died at 54. There are 2 public colleges that are free and one private one that you pay. He had gone to India for 3 years to study business. He was asked if there was corruption here: very little. Bhutan ranks 49th in the world, Japan is #1; India is 118th; last is Afghanistan, for least corruption.

Monks getting a promotion

Story that teaches about respecting elders

Room where Shabdrunk Ngawang Namgyal from Tibet possibly died and his bones are there.

Painting outside the entrance

HUGE group of brown trout by bridge entrance. Fishing AND Hunting are illegal in Bhutan. Sorry, Randy!

We passed an area near the pass where Tibetan refugees (when China invaded Tibet in '59) settled and were granted temporary citizenship. They are now assimilated into Bhutanese culture. Since 1959, all borders with Tibet are closed. There are strict immigration rules. For a foreigner to live here, they must spend $250/day (rent, food, transportation, etc.) None can own land. Only the King can grant citizenship - he knew of two times: one a Swiss and one a Japanese - both had helped developed farming here.

In 2006 the 4th King gave the country back to the people when he abdicated and it became a Constitutional Monarchy. There is a General Assembly, representatives, a court, etc. They have trade relations only with China. 80% of their products come from India; some from Thailand. In 1971 Bhutan joined the UN saying they had 700,000 people.

Nepal has diplomatic relations with China. So India cut off oil supply to Nepal and they are struggling there. At one point, China claimed 2,000 sq. mi. in the north and it was given rather than fight. It included Bhutan's highest mountain, but no people live there.

We passed the Royal Botanical Park, where 46 types of rhododendrons will bloom in the spring. Pat and Randy, there are 30 endangered birds here and over 400 species! A Birders' paradise. Our guide said there are lots of birding tours!

We're settled at the Dragon's Nest hotel along the combined Phochu (male) and Mochu (female) river for two nights.