I got up around 5:30 a.m. on our first full day at Pickled Tea and went to the bathroom. As I’mcoming out, Betty was washing her face at the sink. I was too tired to say anything or ask her why, and went back to bed. Pretty soon, before I got to sleep, she was standing by my bed, full dressed asking me when I was going to get up!!! I’m usually the early one! She had forgotten to change her alarm clock and thought it was 8 a.m. - it was only 6!!! I told her to go away! Good laugh at that!
A delicious breakfast was included at the Pickled Tea. We thought later, since we saw no evidence of a kitchen, that they, like the rest of Burma, goes out in the a.m. to get street food for breakfast!! Oh, well! too late!
We took a taxi to the train station. There is a 3 hr circular train around Yangon. The one we caught headed north away from the downtown area. As we rode around for perhaps 1.5 hrs. pretty much all levels of society rode for awhile. Mostly were the hawkers, whole families of them selling water, souvenirs, apples, newspapers, etc. up and down the cars. Two families got on with very cute 2 and 3 month old babies. Monks rode for awhile. Businessmen on the way to work. Men with several huge baskets of produce I’m assuming heading downtown to the market to sell! We were able to get a seat and just watch the countryside go by.
One station past the Central one, we disembarked and headed to the favorite market, according to Lonely Planet. On the way we stepped into the cool Anglican Church. At the market first on my list was an umbrella for sun protection. Got a purple one that I think Sarah will like when I’m finished. Had trouble, however, with the clip keeping it open. Sometimes it catches; sometimes not! Also was looking for a silky football shirt with Myanmar on it for Jackson - no luck!! Stopped when we saw a pile of oranges, we enjoyed a fresh squeezed - hold the ice! In case it wasn’t made with purified water! She also was mashing avocados for someone’s drink. I’ve tasted avocado juice, I think in Malaysia, which was delicious!
There is a Sule Pagoda right downtown so we went to take a look. As soon as we approached the entrance, two women popped out and shoved flowers and incense and something else on a stick into our hands. Yelled at us to sit down and take off our shoes! Then tried to get us to pay a bunch for these things. We said no and gave them back! Then as we headed up the stairs, we were going to have to pay a foreigner admission fee. By this time, we were turned off so walked back down, retrieved our shoes and headed out! Across the street is Independence Park with a large white obelisk, celebrating independence from Britain in 1948. Britain had taken Burma as part of it’s commonwealth in 1857 and made Rangoon its capital (was Mandalay under the king and queen of Burma). Then Japan controlled during the war and Aung San negotiated with them initially, thinking they would give independence to Burma. When he realized he’d made a mistake, he supported the Allies. The Allies bombed Burma and Japan withdrew. Briefly after the war Britain tried to regain its former status; Burma was the first of the British Commonwealth to become independent.
There was an art exhibition and tons of families gathered in the park (it was a weekend). Around the park is the white city hall, former British bldg renovated. On the right was the red brick court house in the process of renovation. Many other buildings with European style architecture (like on the Bund in Shanghai) were abandoned and left to ruin. Squatters were living in the disheveled buildings. A few years ago some crazy ruler of Burma decided to move the capital 200 miles or so north called Naypyitaw. It apparently has wide streets (no cars!) and government business is carried on there, but government workers weren’t allowed to move their families. So they live in dormitory-like housing! NOBODY goes there!!
Next we looked for the Strand Hotel, down by the riverside. This was famous - Maugham, Kipling and other authors stayed here - only whites allowed, Burmese were the workers! It has been renovated. We stopped in because it was cool and quiet! A Burmese woman was playing some kind of instrument in the lobby and later a Burmese harp. We just sat and enjoyed the cool for awhile! Later we crossed the overpass to the ferry terminal where we rode for 10 minutes across and back. We had to fight off the hawkers who tried to talk us into a tour into the countryside on the far side. I fended them off and they finally gave up.
We now headed to this hotel where you were supposed to have a cool drink and watch the sun set over the Shwe Dagon Pagoda. On the way I heard this lively music and we stopped in the Immanual Baptist Church. Only about 10 people were in it with a very enthusiastic minister leading them and a band playing on the side!
Long walk, getting lost but finally found the Alpha Hotel. On the roof people were drinking but no one came to take our order. Finally I went over to ask and we ordered lime drinks. Nothing came! We were told they had to go get ice! This is a bar!! I was ready to leave 10 minutes before Betty in disgust!! At the street we took a cab back to the Pickled Tea. I promised Betty a beer! So we had to walk out to a market a few blocks away. I was able to get seltzer and oreos and a beer for Betty. Much better!
Somewhere here at Pickled Tea we met Lucah, a German who has been traveling for several months while he decides what to do with his life. His father is a doctor and he thought about doing that. He ended up traveling on the bus with us to Bagan on Tuesday night.
We also met a German couple who moved on but told us about Sakura Residence, a taxi ride away, where there is a swimming pool and workout room you can use for $15 for the day. That’s my plan for Sunday!!
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