February 28th ACROSS THE HIGHLANDS OF PERU

We left our Hostel Pirwa at 7 a.m. to catch our 10 hour tour bus to Puno. It made 5 stops with an English guide, a buffet lunch that was actually good this time, and then to Puno. We are at another Pirwa hostel after a short taxi ride from the bus station - it was daylight and very safe! We cross a high point of 14,000+ feet today and made a quick stop to use the banos and take photos of some snow/glacier mountain tops in the Andes. Another stop was a little town with a church Manuel called the "Sistine Chapel" of South America. It really was lovely with 16th century frescoes on the walls, two 1600 German pump organs still working (we didn´t hear them) and then additional art work added in 1640s with cedar ceilings and trim work with 28 carat gold leaf. I guess the Incas did have gold hidden somewhere. Manuel pointed out how the Catholics tried to convert the "pagans" by incorporating some of their symbols like a huge sun high above the altar, mermaids in the frescoes and serpents. This helped smooth the transition, I guess. All the locals have certainly bought into the conversion and the churches are filled and seemingly well supported!. Also on the ceiling was an 8 pointed star similar to Jewish star, and ceilings with a lot of Moorish influence. So it was a real mix. Another stop was a pre-Inca ruins with all kinds of statuary that was different and interesting, from around the time of Christ. Another Inca ruins had some high walls remaining, unusual because the Spanish tried to tear down or build over everything. This was the central point in the highlands for the rulers of one of the 4 provinces of Incaland. They had over 180 round stone granary storage buildings where they kept grain in case of eruptions or wars. The nobles and higher ups lived in the 14 or so buildings with spacious courtyards. This all was discovered in 1940s and partially reconstructed and then the little town of Paro grew up around it. We passed through Juliaca, largest town around, near Lago Titicaca and Manuel said the main industry is smuggling from Bolivia. The women do the smuggling, then resell stuff in Peru and don´t pay taxes of course. Houses there are left unfinished so they don´t have to pay taxes on them. Consequently the town was a mess with little infrastructure. Puno´s main industry is also smuggling as it´s closer to the border, maybe 2 hrs. away, but it´s on a hillside overlooking the lake so is a bit prettier. Tomorrow we go out on the lake to 3 islands and stay over one night with an indigenous family. And of course the shower here just spits so we´ll smell wonderful after 2 days!! :)