WALLACE, IDAHO July 10th

We just had the most delightful 24 hours in the town of Wallace, ID. We had met some people at the Corn Palace in SD who were living in Couer d’Alene (means Heart of the Awl – as the Indians there were such fierce traders with the French). I asked them what things we should be sure not to miss and they mentioned the mine tours and the bordello museum tour (the brothel closed in 1988!) in nearby Wallace. So we planned to stop there for the night after the long drive from Idaho Falls.

We stayed at the Stardust Motel with a funky sign right out of the 1960s that I forgot to take a picture of. But the room was great, and before bed we watched a PBS special on Lewis and Clark – perfect for where we’re traveling! In the morning I walked over to the nearby and connected Wallace Inn and used their pool and exercise room while Betty walked downtown, and Rod slept!!

Colonel Wallace (not really a colonel) purchased 80 acres of land that became the town of Wallace. When his wife joined him there was a population of 14 people! The north fork of the Couer d’Alene river runs through town. In 1887, Wallace reported catching 247 trout in one day’s fishing on Placer Creek!

By 1886 mining claims covered most of the great mines of the district. First gold was discovered but that didn’t last long. Then silver took over. By 2011 the district had produced 1.3 billion ounces of silver, one of the richest mining districts in the world! Miners still mine silver, lead and zinc ores here.

In 1910 the largest forest fire in US history in August destroyed the eastern half of town and destroyed 3 million acres of virgin timberland in northern Idaho and western Montana. 86 people were killed. One of the heroes was Edward Pulaski, who led a group of firefighters. When he realized they were trapped, they took cover in a mine shaft. Two of them escaped and died. He held the others in by gunpoint and saved their lives as the fire swept over them!

Betty and I took a mine tour in the morning, riding the trolley 15 minutes out of town. The tour guide was a former miner and was very informative. He said high school students in Wallace took a course senior year where they came down to this mine and practiced sinking holes, blowing rock, etc. to see if they’d like mining. Some came out of high school and immediately had a job, making around $50,000 / year!!! Beats McDonald’s!

We then took a tour of the last Bordello/Brothel in Idaho, which closed in 1988. Very interesting!! And well run! The girls working here would be warned ahead of time if officials were in town. And in 1988 they ran out and just left everything as is!! No one showed up but Ginger, the madam, decided it was time to move on!! She had been there for 25 years or so! Girls lived right there, the rooms were colors (blue, grey, etc) as the names changed frequently so it was easier to keep color names. I bought a mug with the prices listed for different services!! What a hoot! The tour guide said several of the women have come through visiting and they got a lot of information from them. One girl reported making about $100,000 a year, worked there 2 years and then moved to Canada, married, bought a different business and was back visiting with her husband.

Everyone in town was paid off, girls were checked weekly by local doctors, they kept 60% and Ginger got 40%. If there were tips, like for NOT using condoms, or extra services, the girls got to keep that! They even had time cards!

I forgot to mention the previous night when we went to the Wallace Brewing Co. for a beer. Todd, the owner, who used to be a banker! Was very informative. The big vats for brewing were in the next room. I tried the huckleberry beer – huckleberries are in season now and I’ve had 2 shakes! Delicious!! I bought a “growler”, new word for me, to take to Michelle’s party on Sunday, plus a couple of other samples I’m sure Jay especially will enjoy!

We had a great time in Wallace, tiny, but special and interesting! Rod bought a couple of books as there were huge union vs. mining owners violence and riots in 1892 and again in 1899. U.S. Army troops were stationed here for several years. More than 1,200 miners were imprisoned in a makeshift prison termed the “bullpen.”

President Teddy Roosevelt arrived here in 1903 stumping for some candidate. Lana Turner was born here but moved to California when she was 7.

We really enjoyed our visit! Very serendipitous stop!